Pics of main cause of creaking front seats
Here's some pics of the fatigue cracked front driver's seat on my early '92 216 GTi 3dr. Most of the time loud creaks or rattles and a seat that feels a 'bit wobbly' is probably down to this crossbar failing.
Already repaired the passenger seat last week before MOT but noticed the drivers side was not only cracked but the crossbar had actually completely snapped off both sides and was only being held on by the seat fabric/foam liner. Didn't want to risk removing trim as it has shrunk over the years and probably would have torn on refitting.
Sand off the original paint using Dremmel etc, drill out any cracks to stop them spreading, then clamp crossbar in position before tack welding. Check final position and if needed use a 'Quik Clamp' in reverse to spread the frame at the runners as the sides will try and 'tuck in' without the bar or the seat bolted to the car. Go easy on welds as metal is thin in places. Do opposite side welding to prevent heat buildup but most important - watch out for the foam rubber and fabric if you're not stripping seat down.
My seat had not only snapped completely but even the ends had cracked around the original welds which means the welds had held but the surrounding metal had not. Not surprised since weld is harder than unwelded mild steel.
All primered and top coated.
Already repaired the passenger seat last week before MOT but noticed the drivers side was not only cracked but the crossbar had actually completely snapped off both sides and was only being held on by the seat fabric/foam liner. Didn't want to risk removing trim as it has shrunk over the years and probably would have torn on refitting.
Sand off the original paint using Dremmel etc, drill out any cracks to stop them spreading, then clamp crossbar in position before tack welding. Check final position and if needed use a 'Quik Clamp' in reverse to spread the frame at the runners as the sides will try and 'tuck in' without the bar or the seat bolted to the car. Go easy on welds as metal is thin in places. Do opposite side welding to prevent heat buildup but most important - watch out for the foam rubber and fabric if you're not stripping seat down.
My seat had not only snapped completely but even the ends had cracked around the original welds which means the welds had held but the surrounding metal had not. Not surprised since weld is harder than unwelded mild steel.
All primered and top coated.
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