Diagnoses from the experts? Becoming V expensive....
Hi everyone,
Any specific solutions to this lot would be great - at this rate I'll be replacing half the car.... Thanks in advance to anyone who can help me tackle this lot. I have the car in Sweden in the moment and I'm in 2 minds as to whether to bring the car over to the UK to get this lot sorted out Maybe at TSautos. I also need a rear tailgate window and I'd like to fit the fuel burning heater which are sitting at hom win the UK. But it's a £700.00 round trip....
Ill be as brief as possible. I was on the verge of selling and ending my MG affairs (MGB, MGTF, ZT-T), but resolved a few weeks ago to fix and restore to glory as I cant think of another car Id rather have and I like it. Already quite a few mods.
History of car first in case its relevant and problems afterwards:
Car bought 2009 for expanding family at 57000. Grey 2004 cdti ZT-T auto, leather, abs, cruise. No history so took a gamble as needed one fast. Later discovered it had had a minor front end prang and wasnt brilliantly looked after. :-(
Car now at 80,000. Has a non standard intercooler with no o-rings. Not sure why.
WORK DONE:
2009:
Synergy 2A tuning box
Pierburgh Maf
Synergy Chrome dash switch
Multimedia double din head unit
Replaced boot cover handle
Replaced all exterior badges
Fitted leds / sidelights / main beam
Fitted Underbonnet pad
Millers XFD 5w/40 oil 2x5ls
Zx1 Oil treatment
Millers diesel sport 4 fuel treatment
Liqui-Moly Diesel Purge
Fitted EGR bypass
Replaced Dashboard (Rhodium Grey)
Replaced Repeaters
Plenum drain mod and spy hole
Air intake mod
2012
60,000m Service
Oil + Filter change
Air filter change
Pollen filter change
Anti-freeze change
Brake fluid change
Fuel filter change
NO gearbox fluid change as advised not to ???
Air con check + regas
Replaced PCV breather with BMW
T4 check
Lower suspension arm (FL)
New Bonnet sensor
New radiator (other blew)
New spare key
2013: STARTED GETTING A KNOCK FRONT RIGHT. Replaced:
F Discs and pads
Drop links front and back
Lower suspension arm (FL)
Powerflex bushes: lower engine mount (new type) / wishbone rear bushes / F anti-roll bar bushes
Top strut bearings
Coolant hose
4 wheel laser alignment / balance
2014: STARTED GETTING CLUNKY GEARCHANGES
Oil change
Front springs and dampers (leaking fl)
Front drop links again
Top strut bearings again.
CV joints
Spring protectors
Condenser
Fan and motor (ac went) - THANKS TO JULES FOR A GREAT UPGRADE
New exhaust (Doesnt fit)
PROBLEMS: EVERYTHING IS BETTER WHEN CAR COLD. MUCH WORSE WHEN WARM.
Knocks: ONLY HAPPENS WHEN WARM. WHEN COLD, NO KNOCK.
Knock from front end (think drivers side). Always at low speeds - town driving. When lifting off brake and starting to accelerate get a clunk. Again when lift off accelerator. Same with brake and when parking e.g. when stationary and turning the steering wheel a half turn left and right. If I rock the steering wheel a quarter turn left and right, knock is still there but less. Doesnt happen when stationary and revving engine. Also get knock when turning engine on and off. Thought it was lower engine mount but that has been done.
Going through forums Ive narrowed it down to these possibilities:
Lower arm balljoint.
Front anti roll bar where it fastens on to the strut link rod
Antirollbar links first
Lower balljoint pinch bolts
Track rod end
Suspension arms bushes bolts loose
?
2. Gearbox Clunk
Gears are not super smooth but generally ok when car is cold. When warm and stop starting, gear changes jerky and clunk sometimes. Occasionally gearstick can feel resistant going into R from P when parked up and hot.
2-4 Duty solenoid or related to knock above? Or gearbox oil needs changing?
3.Heavy steering:
Had an advisory of play in the steering rack. Think there might be a leak on the passenger side. Easy fix without replacing whole thing?
Juddering tthrough car when breaking at low speeds or decelerating lightly. Not when heavy breaking. Better when cold. When warm its worse.
Rear Discs?? Havent touched them since I bought car.
Poor acceleration from low revs with synergy:
This has never been right since I bought the synergy. When turned on, acceleration from low revs isnt good. The engine sounds like its pinking or misfiring until I kickdown to get the revs up. It tends to be ok in sport mode. I replaced the EGR in 2012 with the cheaper alloy one on ebay. Fit wasnt great but I made it fit with difficulty. Could egr leak be the cause?
Metallic vibration under the car:
I thought it was the exhaust, but it doesnt seem to be. At low speeds when accelerating or decelerating and when warm, I get what sounds like an exhaust vibration that sounds like its coming from the centre of the whole car. The heat shield is secure. Floor tray isnt so secure though. Held up by zip ties. Could it cause such a big vibration?
Airbags:
Just discovered they're not connected. The blue connector cables have been chopped under the car. Does this mean the airbags are still active but only for a prang and that the seat side airbags are disconnected?
Any specific solutions to this lot would be great - at this rate I'll be replacing half the car.... Thanks in advance to anyone who can help me tackle this lot. I have the car in Sweden in the moment and I'm in 2 minds as to whether to bring the car over to the UK to get this lot sorted out Maybe at TSautos. I also need a rear tailgate window and I'd like to fit the fuel burning heater which are sitting at hom win the UK. But it's a £700.00 round trip....
Ill be as brief as possible. I was on the verge of selling and ending my MG affairs (MGB, MGTF, ZT-T), but resolved a few weeks ago to fix and restore to glory as I cant think of another car Id rather have and I like it. Already quite a few mods.
History of car first in case its relevant and problems afterwards:
Car bought 2009 for expanding family at 57000. Grey 2004 cdti ZT-T auto, leather, abs, cruise. No history so took a gamble as needed one fast. Later discovered it had had a minor front end prang and wasnt brilliantly looked after. :-(
Car now at 80,000. Has a non standard intercooler with no o-rings. Not sure why.
WORK DONE:
2009:
Synergy 2A tuning box
Pierburgh Maf
Synergy Chrome dash switch
Multimedia double din head unit
Replaced boot cover handle
Replaced all exterior badges
Fitted leds / sidelights / main beam
Fitted Underbonnet pad
Millers XFD 5w/40 oil 2x5ls
Zx1 Oil treatment
Millers diesel sport 4 fuel treatment
Liqui-Moly Diesel Purge
Fitted EGR bypass
Replaced Dashboard (Rhodium Grey)
Replaced Repeaters
Plenum drain mod and spy hole
Air intake mod
2012
60,000m Service
Oil + Filter change
Air filter change
Pollen filter change
Anti-freeze change
Brake fluid change
Fuel filter change
NO gearbox fluid change as advised not to ???
Air con check + regas
Replaced PCV breather with BMW
T4 check
Lower suspension arm (FL)
New Bonnet sensor
New radiator (other blew)
New spare key
2013: STARTED GETTING A KNOCK FRONT RIGHT. Replaced:
F Discs and pads
Drop links front and back
Lower suspension arm (FL)
Powerflex bushes: lower engine mount (new type) / wishbone rear bushes / F anti-roll bar bushes
Top strut bearings
Coolant hose
4 wheel laser alignment / balance
2014: STARTED GETTING CLUNKY GEARCHANGES
Oil change
Front springs and dampers (leaking fl)
Front drop links again
Top strut bearings again.
CV joints
Spring protectors
Condenser
Fan and motor (ac went) - THANKS TO JULES FOR A GREAT UPGRADE
New exhaust (Doesnt fit)
PROBLEMS: EVERYTHING IS BETTER WHEN CAR COLD. MUCH WORSE WHEN WARM.
Knocks: ONLY HAPPENS WHEN WARM. WHEN COLD, NO KNOCK.
Knock from front end (think drivers side). Always at low speeds - town driving. When lifting off brake and starting to accelerate get a clunk. Again when lift off accelerator. Same with brake and when parking e.g. when stationary and turning the steering wheel a half turn left and right. If I rock the steering wheel a quarter turn left and right, knock is still there but less. Doesnt happen when stationary and revving engine. Also get knock when turning engine on and off. Thought it was lower engine mount but that has been done.
Going through forums Ive narrowed it down to these possibilities:
Lower arm balljoint.
Front anti roll bar where it fastens on to the strut link rod
Antirollbar links first
Lower balljoint pinch bolts
Track rod end
Suspension arms bushes bolts loose
?
2. Gearbox Clunk
Gears are not super smooth but generally ok when car is cold. When warm and stop starting, gear changes jerky and clunk sometimes. Occasionally gearstick can feel resistant going into R from P when parked up and hot.
2-4 Duty solenoid or related to knock above? Or gearbox oil needs changing?
3.Heavy steering:
Had an advisory of play in the steering rack. Think there might be a leak on the passenger side. Easy fix without replacing whole thing?
Juddering tthrough car when breaking at low speeds or decelerating lightly. Not when heavy breaking. Better when cold. When warm its worse.
Rear Discs?? Havent touched them since I bought car.
Poor acceleration from low revs with synergy:
This has never been right since I bought the synergy. When turned on, acceleration from low revs isnt good. The engine sounds like its pinking or misfiring until I kickdown to get the revs up. It tends to be ok in sport mode. I replaced the EGR in 2012 with the cheaper alloy one on ebay. Fit wasnt great but I made it fit with difficulty. Could egr leak be the cause?
Metallic vibration under the car:
I thought it was the exhaust, but it doesnt seem to be. At low speeds when accelerating or decelerating and when warm, I get what sounds like an exhaust vibration that sounds like its coming from the centre of the whole car. The heat shield is secure. Floor tray isnt so secure though. Held up by zip ties. Could it cause such a big vibration?
Airbags:
Just discovered they're not connected. The blue connector cables have been chopped under the car. Does this mean the airbags are still active but only for a prang and that the seat side airbags are disconnected?
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publié par vb @ 04:30
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