MGF Foglight wiring loom installation how to
Ok nothing new I guess as there are plenty of wiring diagrams out there to show how to make your own loom.
I was lucky enough to find an original loom new so I figured it may be useful to show some pics in case it helps in any future homemade loom.......if not here are some pics anyway!!!
I have this fitted now but have no foglights, brackets or bezels....oh and I am looking for the templates to cut holes in the bumper....but one step at a time!!
Here goes and here is a pic of the loom in the box.
The first thing to do is to unpack and you will see the following:
- Two connectors of various lengths that plug into foglights
- Earth strap connecting to underbonnet car body
- Large rubber plug with loom carried through middle
- Fuse and holder
- Relay and holder
- red & yellow wire to connect to MFU connector behind fusebox
- Black and red wire with connector to plug into fusebox
- Brown connector to plug into fusebox
- Earth strap to connect to fusebox earth point
- Plug for foglight switch already assembled
- Foglight switch bought separately
Next up disconnect the battery as you will be working around the fusebox.
To start on feeding the loom in the right areas, you need to ignore the nonsence in the instructions. They tell you to cut a large hole in the bulkhead!! Don't do this, instead remove the spare rubber bung in the bulkhead and feed up the foglight connectors and earth strap from below and fit the new rubber bung attached, ensuring that you do not get anything in the way of other wiring and pedals!! For clarity this is the smaller rubber bung on the right of the large wiring loom on the image below. The second wire by the way is for the Rover Zero temp sensor I have fitted.
Next up stay in the bonnet area and tidy up by using tie wraps to connect to main wiring loom. When you get further down you need to secure the earth strap eye here below
The loom then needs to fit down the gap here towards the bumpers:
Here the foglight connectors are passed down onto the floor
Next up, if like me you haven't got any foglights yet.....or even holes you need to waterproof connections
and then tie up the shorter connector behind the bumper. There are eyelets to do this such as below. This image is showing my exterior temp sensor tied to it.
For the longer connector you need to run it along the front of the subframe and tie it in a similar way. Make sure it is out the way of rain etc.
That is it outside, so now move into the drivers footwell and the fuseboard. Remove the cover in its entirety as you will need to get behind it for the MFU connector.
Here is a pic of most things dangling down on the floor before we start with switch connection block just out of view along with the earth eye and fuse.
First up, do the tricky thing first and connect the red/yellow wire to the MFU connector. This connector is located at the left hand side rear of the fuseboard and coloured grey. To get to it undo the two nuts holding the fuseboard on.
Unplug the connector and then release the backing plate which drops down, allowing extra wires to be connected. The instructions say put lead in connector 19 but I counted and counted again and it looks like connection 21 to me. Here is a pic of where it goes.
Put connector back in and reattach fuseboard leaving the right or left hand nut loose.
Next ensure nothing is in the way and connect the earth eyelet to the right hand nut mentioned above. or the left hand nut whichever gives you more room. For clarity this is the right hand one I connected to:
Next you need to fix the two connectors to the fusebox.
Looking at the image below the black wire to the left should be ignored as this is the rover zero exterior temp connector. To the right of this fit the black/red coloured wire connector and then on the right the brown connector from the kit.
Once this is done tidy area up and ensure nothing is touching. You now need to take the long connector that is left and thread it towards the drivers footwell cover. Make sure this is well out the way.
Undo the two screws to the footwell lamp cover and push out a blanking switch. on dashboard. Next thread connector through and tidy with cable ties so connecting block is showing through hole as below:
Then add the switch. The switch by the way is handed and is meant to go in the gap to the far left I believe. Not to worry just file down the upstanding plastic tab and it goes in any slot.
Replace the footwell lamp cover and fusebox cover and that's it finished.
I was lucky enough to find an original loom new so I figured it may be useful to show some pics in case it helps in any future homemade loom.......if not here are some pics anyway!!!
I have this fitted now but have no foglights, brackets or bezels....oh and I am looking for the templates to cut holes in the bumper....but one step at a time!!
Here goes and here is a pic of the loom in the box.
The first thing to do is to unpack and you will see the following:
- Two connectors of various lengths that plug into foglights
- Earth strap connecting to underbonnet car body
- Large rubber plug with loom carried through middle
- Fuse and holder
- Relay and holder
- red & yellow wire to connect to MFU connector behind fusebox
- Black and red wire with connector to plug into fusebox
- Brown connector to plug into fusebox
- Earth strap to connect to fusebox earth point
- Plug for foglight switch already assembled
- Foglight switch bought separately
Next up disconnect the battery as you will be working around the fusebox.
To start on feeding the loom in the right areas, you need to ignore the nonsence in the instructions. They tell you to cut a large hole in the bulkhead!! Don't do this, instead remove the spare rubber bung in the bulkhead and feed up the foglight connectors and earth strap from below and fit the new rubber bung attached, ensuring that you do not get anything in the way of other wiring and pedals!! For clarity this is the smaller rubber bung on the right of the large wiring loom on the image below. The second wire by the way is for the Rover Zero temp sensor I have fitted.
Next up stay in the bonnet area and tidy up by using tie wraps to connect to main wiring loom. When you get further down you need to secure the earth strap eye here below
The loom then needs to fit down the gap here towards the bumpers:
Here the foglight connectors are passed down onto the floor
Next up, if like me you haven't got any foglights yet.....or even holes you need to waterproof connections
and then tie up the shorter connector behind the bumper. There are eyelets to do this such as below. This image is showing my exterior temp sensor tied to it.
For the longer connector you need to run it along the front of the subframe and tie it in a similar way. Make sure it is out the way of rain etc.
That is it outside, so now move into the drivers footwell and the fuseboard. Remove the cover in its entirety as you will need to get behind it for the MFU connector.
Here is a pic of most things dangling down on the floor before we start with switch connection block just out of view along with the earth eye and fuse.
First up, do the tricky thing first and connect the red/yellow wire to the MFU connector. This connector is located at the left hand side rear of the fuseboard and coloured grey. To get to it undo the two nuts holding the fuseboard on.
Unplug the connector and then release the backing plate which drops down, allowing extra wires to be connected. The instructions say put lead in connector 19 but I counted and counted again and it looks like connection 21 to me. Here is a pic of where it goes.
Put connector back in and reattach fuseboard leaving the right or left hand nut loose.
Next ensure nothing is in the way and connect the earth eyelet to the right hand nut mentioned above. or the left hand nut whichever gives you more room. For clarity this is the right hand one I connected to:
Next you need to fix the two connectors to the fusebox.
Looking at the image below the black wire to the left should be ignored as this is the rover zero exterior temp connector. To the right of this fit the black/red coloured wire connector and then on the right the brown connector from the kit.
Once this is done tidy area up and ensure nothing is touching. You now need to take the long connector that is left and thread it towards the drivers footwell cover. Make sure this is well out the way.
Undo the two screws to the footwell lamp cover and push out a blanking switch. on dashboard. Next thread connector through and tidy with cable ties so connecting block is showing through hole as below:
Then add the switch. The switch by the way is handed and is meant to go in the gap to the far left I believe. Not to worry just file down the upstanding plastic tab and it goes in any slot.
Replace the footwell lamp cover and fusebox cover and that's it finished.
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