Rover 25 electrical problem-HELP, at the end of my teather!!
Hello all,
Don't often ask for help on here as I prefer to attempt top sort things myself but.... arggghhh. Slowly going in sane!!
Just bought a nice Rover 25 IL model in HNX silver. Lovely car and obviously been very well looked after.
There are only a few things that need sorting out. A leaky sunroof, the remote locking only locks the car and doesn't unlock it and one majorly annoying thing which may be the last straw-the FL10 fuse (pink) in the engine bay blows as soon as the heater blower is switched on.
So I've checked that the resistors themselves behind glove box are OK and they are fine.
Checked the loom from boot to car and that is fine too, pulled it almost all the way out so I'm positive on that front. Also disconnected the two loom plugs on the O/S rear in boot area, re=fused the offending item and it still blows after a few seconds.
Also checked the area near the seats at rear in case there is a short and all fine there.
Checked behind radio and there are no shorts or bare wires etc.
The only thing I can think of is that just before the we bought the car, the boot loom was replaced as it was in a state, and this apparently damaged the Lucas 5as box behind the driver side fuse box-hence a possible reason why the central locking is acting strangely.
When i removed the Lucas unit to try and get the locking working I intended to sort out any damage by soldering. However someone had already attempted this and I added an extra bit which looked like it had been missed. Question is, have I caused the heater problem?? As it appeared to be working OK before I added the extra solder.
The heater blower motor appears to work and as above the resistor is fine as I have wired a temporary 'fuse' into the FL10 pink fuse space and the heater runs perfectly. This is just a piece of wire.
Probably best not to use this as a permanent fix as it is obviously fused for a reason me thinks!??
Any help would be really appreciated as I've been on this for days now annnnddd we are expecting our second child in the next dew days as well as me starting a new job Monday annnnnd finishing a part time course which completes in the next two weeks. So to cut a long one short, driving a steamy car in the rain with no heater is somewhat of an unwelcome distraction and a pain in the rear!
Thanks guys and girls :)
Don't often ask for help on here as I prefer to attempt top sort things myself but.... arggghhh. Slowly going in sane!!
Just bought a nice Rover 25 IL model in HNX silver. Lovely car and obviously been very well looked after.
There are only a few things that need sorting out. A leaky sunroof, the remote locking only locks the car and doesn't unlock it and one majorly annoying thing which may be the last straw-the FL10 fuse (pink) in the engine bay blows as soon as the heater blower is switched on.
So I've checked that the resistors themselves behind glove box are OK and they are fine.
Checked the loom from boot to car and that is fine too, pulled it almost all the way out so I'm positive on that front. Also disconnected the two loom plugs on the O/S rear in boot area, re=fused the offending item and it still blows after a few seconds.
Also checked the area near the seats at rear in case there is a short and all fine there.
Checked behind radio and there are no shorts or bare wires etc.
The only thing I can think of is that just before the we bought the car, the boot loom was replaced as it was in a state, and this apparently damaged the Lucas 5as box behind the driver side fuse box-hence a possible reason why the central locking is acting strangely.
When i removed the Lucas unit to try and get the locking working I intended to sort out any damage by soldering. However someone had already attempted this and I added an extra bit which looked like it had been missed. Question is, have I caused the heater problem?? As it appeared to be working OK before I added the extra solder.
The heater blower motor appears to work and as above the resistor is fine as I have wired a temporary 'fuse' into the FL10 pink fuse space and the heater runs perfectly. This is just a piece of wire.
Probably best not to use this as a permanent fix as it is obviously fused for a reason me thinks!??
Any help would be really appreciated as I've been on this for days now annnnddd we are expecting our second child in the next dew days as well as me starting a new job Monday annnnnd finishing a part time course which completes in the next two weeks. So to cut a long one short, driving a steamy car in the rain with no heater is somewhat of an unwelcome distraction and a pain in the rear!
Thanks guys and girls :)
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