HOW TO - Fit a TF wheel to your ZR

I picked up a ZR with a rubbish soft steering wheel and quickly thought what I could replace it with. At first I thought TF, but after a few failed attempts at winning some on ebay (or sellers not replying), I got a leather ZR wheel instead. I could never get it to sit straight, and soon found another TF wheel and went for it.



Everything I've read has made it out to be a hassle, but give it an hour or so and you'll be able to take apart wheels blindfolded.



Now, you have 2 options here. You get the TF wheel with the rotary coupler;







Or you can modify the bottom of the stock airbag and keep the rotary coupler in place.







My TF wheel came with a different wiring arrangement to the stock wheel, where the negative or ground went through the coupler, whereas the original wheel has the ground on the wheel. There is the gap there for the wiring to fit straight in so needs no modify, just swap out the horn wires from the ZR wheel to the TF.







So starting off, disconnect the battery and leave it for 10 - 20 minutes - you don't want any accidents happening... Next you remove the 2 torx screws from the back of the airbag. The airbag should now come away. Disconnect the airbag (pull one piece of the yellow up and the plug should easily remove). Under the center nut on the wheel, then unplug the horn from the rotary coupler and pull away.



Onto the wheel, the horn button sits inside a plastic housing, itself sitting inside the wheel molding. Take out the horn button, then pull the plastic housing away and unplug. The red wire plugs into this housing, the black wire into the top bit that comes away with the spring and the plastic button. Repeat this for the other side. Take the ground clip out and the wiring now comes out. Repeat this process on the TF wheel and put in your ZR wheel wiring.



The coupler is held in with 4 screws. But before this you need to take off the cowl (held in with 3 screws, one to the steering column, the other 2 on the main body of the plastic). I then just pulled these apart. Now the coupler is accessible, take out the 4 screws, it'll come away.



Now, when putting in the next coupler, familiarise yourself with how the coupler actually works. I counted that you're getting 1800 degrees lock to lock. This is easily enough. You must make sure that it is as central as you can get it, which I know isn't possible as the plug on the wheel isn't at 90 or 180 degrees. But this isn't a problem as there is quite a big chuck of rotation unused on the coupler, but you must make sure you are near to the middle otherwise the coupler will break when you need to go lock to lock.



Fit the coupler, put the plastic cowl back on, and put your wheel at the same position it was coming off (ideally you'll have set it straight). If this is the case, the coupler plugs should be at 45 degrees and the wheel should go back on. Plug in the horn wiring and put the battery back on to check that horns both work. There is no reason they shouldn't. Disconnect the battery again, make sure your wheel is straight, and now attach the wheel again with the nut.



Plug the airbag in, screw in the torx screws and then connect the battery. The SRS light shouldn't stay on with the ignition and the system is fully functioning.



So that's it. I'll endeavour to add a few more pictures but you should get the jist once you start.



The TF wheel is definitely different and takes a long time to get used to, it has for me. It gives you more accuracy with speed in corners, but is a bit clunky doing lock to lock manouvres. But it's an improvement on the original wheel, that's for sure.

from the last news http://ift.tt/1I0ghd4

via IFTTT