Front lower ball joint renewal
OK so despite the freezing weather at just after 10 AM it was outside to get this little job ............................... jobbed!
The worst part of this job I find is getting the nuts off the top ball joint and track rod end with them breaking the taper seal and spinning the joint so that then the nut has to be cut off.
This time it was not a problem as in fact I was worried that the tapers were not going to release .................................... damn they were tightly locked in place.
I used a piece of timber and a trolly jack to lift the upper arm so that the top ball joints stud can be pulled down through the arm. Had already undone the lower pinch bolt and of course soaked the split joint in releasing fluid (GT 85 this time) then with the hub swung down a cold chisel is used as wedge to slightly open the lower joints clamp in the hub. I then for the first time used a couple of taper prong ball joint seperators to lift the hub off the lower joint. They made the job even eaiser that usign a big rubber mallet to persuade the hub to come off the lower ball joint.
Once all is out of the way a 4 mm HSS drill bit was used to dril the centre of each rivet about 5mm deep. The hole was then opend up to about 5mm and then a large drill of 10 mm was used to drill the head off. A pin punch was used with the lower arm supported on the tible and jack to drive the rest of the rivets out.
This is where we are now and after a sandwhich it will be wire brush off the wishbone then spray the insides with underseal through the ball joints slot before inserting the new ball joint and bolting in in place. The wish bone will be sprayed with underseal as will the new bolts and nuts holding the joint in place.
I don't understand why people dread this job so much. using the three drill it method it took less than 15 minutes to remove all three rivets. This is the fith lower ball joint that I have now replaced and tried this method one the first and it worked.
The it's onto fitting the new CAT.
The worst part of this job I find is getting the nuts off the top ball joint and track rod end with them breaking the taper seal and spinning the joint so that then the nut has to be cut off.
This time it was not a problem as in fact I was worried that the tapers were not going to release .................................... damn they were tightly locked in place.
I used a piece of timber and a trolly jack to lift the upper arm so that the top ball joints stud can be pulled down through the arm. Had already undone the lower pinch bolt and of course soaked the split joint in releasing fluid (GT 85 this time) then with the hub swung down a cold chisel is used as wedge to slightly open the lower joints clamp in the hub. I then for the first time used a couple of taper prong ball joint seperators to lift the hub off the lower joint. They made the job even eaiser that usign a big rubber mallet to persuade the hub to come off the lower ball joint.
Once all is out of the way a 4 mm HSS drill bit was used to dril the centre of each rivet about 5mm deep. The hole was then opend up to about 5mm and then a large drill of 10 mm was used to drill the head off. A pin punch was used with the lower arm supported on the tible and jack to drive the rest of the rivets out.
This is where we are now and after a sandwhich it will be wire brush off the wishbone then spray the insides with underseal through the ball joints slot before inserting the new ball joint and bolting in in place. The wish bone will be sprayed with underseal as will the new bolts and nuts holding the joint in place.
I don't understand why people dread this job so much. using the three drill it method it took less than 15 minutes to remove all three rivets. This is the fith lower ball joint that I have now replaced and tried this method one the first and it worked.
The it's onto fitting the new CAT.
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publié par vb @ 07:08
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