Lessons from V6 timing belt replacement
I thought I'd share some lessons learned from V6 timing belt replacement.
(1) I wouldn't attempt it without the proper setting tools. I used AST4600.
(2) Don't put the exhaust camshaft covers/oil seals on until the very end, i.e. after all belts have been replaced.
(3) If your car is equipped with air conditioning, then remove all three bolts for the air conditioning compressor. If you just remove the two that attach to the engine front plate, I found getting the front plate back on very difficult.
(4) If your car is equipped with air conditioning, unbolting the pipework, especially at the rear of the engine, is one of the most difficult tasks of the whole job.
(5) if you have a manual transmission, the correct location for the timing pin is the rearmost hole in the flywheel housing, which is not what Mr. Haynes says.
(6) When releasing the timing belt tension, simply undo and remove the upper tensioner bolt, then slacken the lower one and turn the tensioner anti-clockwise. This releases the tensioner from the pulley. You then remove the lower bolt and the tensioner from the engine. Compress the tensioner in a vice to insert a locking pin (part of the AST 4600 kit) before refitting.
(7) I had some difficulty with the rear bank secondary belt. I think if I do this again, I'd remove all the belts first, then do the secondary belts before the primary belt. This way there is nothing to restrain the camshafts when fitting the secondary belt and any misalignment can be taken up with the adjustment available on the inlet camshaft sprocket.
I've some experience of doing timing belts on 4-cylinder K-series and Ford engines. The KV6 is much more difficult - not because of the belt itself but because of how inaccessible everything is, especially at the timing end of the engine. I would say that fitting the belt and getting it accurately set up is really very easy on these engines.
The car started on the first attempt! It was nice to hear the V6 running after several months of work (not just the timing belt!)
Andrew
(1) I wouldn't attempt it without the proper setting tools. I used AST4600.
(2) Don't put the exhaust camshaft covers/oil seals on until the very end, i.e. after all belts have been replaced.
(3) If your car is equipped with air conditioning, then remove all three bolts for the air conditioning compressor. If you just remove the two that attach to the engine front plate, I found getting the front plate back on very difficult.
(4) If your car is equipped with air conditioning, unbolting the pipework, especially at the rear of the engine, is one of the most difficult tasks of the whole job.
(5) if you have a manual transmission, the correct location for the timing pin is the rearmost hole in the flywheel housing, which is not what Mr. Haynes says.
(6) When releasing the timing belt tension, simply undo and remove the upper tensioner bolt, then slacken the lower one and turn the tensioner anti-clockwise. This releases the tensioner from the pulley. You then remove the lower bolt and the tensioner from the engine. Compress the tensioner in a vice to insert a locking pin (part of the AST 4600 kit) before refitting.
(7) I had some difficulty with the rear bank secondary belt. I think if I do this again, I'd remove all the belts first, then do the secondary belts before the primary belt. This way there is nothing to restrain the camshafts when fitting the secondary belt and any misalignment can be taken up with the adjustment available on the inlet camshaft sprocket.
I've some experience of doing timing belts on 4-cylinder K-series and Ford engines. The KV6 is much more difficult - not because of the belt itself but because of how inaccessible everything is, especially at the timing end of the engine. I would say that fitting the belt and getting it accurately set up is really very easy on these engines.
The car started on the first attempt! It was nice to hear the V6 running after several months of work (not just the timing belt!)
Andrew
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publié par vb @ 13:28
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