Rover 25 / MG ZR Fitting an Eco-Tek CB-26P Power Boost Valve
Having recently seen one of these on the internet and doing a bit of background reading I decided I would have a go at putting one on my Rover 25 1.6 and seeing if it actually has any noticeable effect. It basically works by utilising the vacuum created from the inlet manifold leading to the brake servo when the engine is under load.
http://ift.tt/1nKeBdy
So I bought one from good old eBay and it came nicely packaged:
I decided to take it apart and see how it worked and it is surprisingly simple. It is a teflon piston backed with a heavy duty spring. When fitted to the vacuum line and the engine is under load the vacuum sucks the piston down allowing extra air to be sucked into the inlet manifold. Once the engine isn't under load the spring shuts the piston again.
Upon closer inspection inside the anodized aluminium body I found some nasty looking burrs of surplus anodizing as can be seen in the photo
I decided to take my dremel to them and get them removed as if they were to be sucked into the engine they could cause some internal damage. The flakes of extra anodizing can be seen here:
And how it looked once de-burred:
Now the vacuum line on the Rover 25 is 9mm in outside diameter meaning that the anodized tee piece is too big to fit the standard vacuum line. To overcome this I bought some 12mm OD 8mm ID fuel line and some hose clips to 'sleeve' the unit.
Next thing was to locate the vacuum line which can be seen in this picture:
Now the brave part, you have to cut the line and then fit the vacuum line into the 'sleeve' and tighten all of the hose clips to ensure a snug fit. Make sure before cutting that you are putting the valve between the inlet manifold and the non-return valve. If you put it on the wrong side you will lose the assisted braking in your vehicle.
The install is now complete. All that needs to be done now is to start your car with the valve fully closed and allow it to warm up.
Once warm unscrew the filter top until you hear the valve start to suck air into the intake manifold.
Once you hear the sound of air being sucked in, you need to tighten the filter until the sound just stops at idle and secure this place with the locking nut underneath.
This item is now set up, it will need to be 'retuned' in about 200miles as the spring/teflon piston will have bedded in by then.
I have also uploaded a YouTube video showing the valve and the sound it makes when 'tuning' HERE:
Now the question " Does it do anything noticeable?"
Well surprisingly it does seem to make the engine rev a bit smoother and the throttle response doesn't seem as sluggish. You can clearly hear the valve operating under load, on overrun when lifting off the throttle or changing gear. I have also not had any issues so far with the brakes operating any other way than they should.
http://ift.tt/1nKeBdy
So I bought one from good old eBay and it came nicely packaged:
I decided to take it apart and see how it worked and it is surprisingly simple. It is a teflon piston backed with a heavy duty spring. When fitted to the vacuum line and the engine is under load the vacuum sucks the piston down allowing extra air to be sucked into the inlet manifold. Once the engine isn't under load the spring shuts the piston again.
Upon closer inspection inside the anodized aluminium body I found some nasty looking burrs of surplus anodizing as can be seen in the photo
I decided to take my dremel to them and get them removed as if they were to be sucked into the engine they could cause some internal damage. The flakes of extra anodizing can be seen here:
And how it looked once de-burred:
Now the vacuum line on the Rover 25 is 9mm in outside diameter meaning that the anodized tee piece is too big to fit the standard vacuum line. To overcome this I bought some 12mm OD 8mm ID fuel line and some hose clips to 'sleeve' the unit.
Next thing was to locate the vacuum line which can be seen in this picture:
Now the brave part, you have to cut the line and then fit the vacuum line into the 'sleeve' and tighten all of the hose clips to ensure a snug fit. Make sure before cutting that you are putting the valve between the inlet manifold and the non-return valve. If you put it on the wrong side you will lose the assisted braking in your vehicle.
The install is now complete. All that needs to be done now is to start your car with the valve fully closed and allow it to warm up.
Once warm unscrew the filter top until you hear the valve start to suck air into the intake manifold.
Once you hear the sound of air being sucked in, you need to tighten the filter until the sound just stops at idle and secure this place with the locking nut underneath.
This item is now set up, it will need to be 'retuned' in about 200miles as the spring/teflon piston will have bedded in by then.
I have also uploaded a YouTube video showing the valve and the sound it makes when 'tuning' HERE:
Now the question " Does it do anything noticeable?"
Well surprisingly it does seem to make the engine rev a bit smoother and the throttle response doesn't seem as sluggish. You can clearly hear the valve operating under load, on overrun when lifting off the throttle or changing gear. I have also not had any issues so far with the brakes operating any other way than they should.
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