Euro Car Parts HT Leads

So I'm trying to fix the misfire on my TF 135 (seems worse under load and at startup) and have plugs and HT leads from Euro Car Parts. I would have had coilpacks off them too but they had no stock when I tried to reserve some on Saturday.



Anyway, long story short, the HT leads that came up when I entered my registration number on their website do not fit. They are described on the box (in small print) as Landrover parts, part number 409675070. The leads themselves are a little longer than the original ones and the HT lead deep sockets are about an inch longer than the original equipment sockets. You can't cut the sockets down to length either.



This means the sockets stand an inch proud of where they should be, wobble and would let allsorts down the spark plug well.



Be warned.



As it happened, two of the four spark plugs looked quite eroded, but it didn't solve my misfire. Getting an OBD reader this week to try and glean some clues, but have HT leads (again), coil packs and the lambda sensor all under suspicion as the most likely culprits.

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My cherished MGF vvc is for sale.

Due to buying Andy Jenkins TF 160, [Trigger], I am reluctantly having to sell my very well cared for F.

All the details are listed in "cars for sale" section on the site.

For some reason I can't include pics,. but these can be viewed on the thread on the T-Bar.

Am open to sensible offers, with or without the hard top.

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vvc cam ladder ,cam questions

I've decided to use the 160 vvc in my 105 zrso the question is will the standard cam ladder fit on the vvc head ?and can I use the standard cam on the inlet?Has anybody linked the inlet cams from the vvc in a standard cam ladder ,I'm OK with spanners (28 years of experience;-) ) and have access to a selection of lathes and turret mills drills etc

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oil pressure switch

Hi all, my eml came on read as oil pressure switch, cat and p1522. What symptoms will pressure switch cause? I'm sticking one in anyway, would it bring p1522 up with is inlet solenoid?

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I need to borrow a diesel ancilliary belt tensionewr tool

Hi - I have been absent form the forums for a few months, just lurking, as my CDT tourer has been pretty much 100% reliable since the start of the year.



However yesterday the serpentine ancilliary belt decided to shred itself and I had a tow home from the AA.



I spend this morning removing pieces of shredded belt from around the idler and tensioner wheels and started to attempt fitting a new belt.



Due to having to replace the alternator twice in the last 6 years, I have successfully re-fitted the belt re-fitting twice before using a large spanner on the tensioner but I notice that the hexagon is now looking a bit worn and I have decided to abandon the job until I can acquire the proper tensioner tool as I really do not want to risk 'rounding it'



Is there anyone in the club who could loan me one of these tools either the official one ....









.. or a good homemade one





I could pay a deposit via Paypal if necessary.



I need to use the tool on Wednesday 3rd Dec and can post it back first class ....





Please PM me



Thanks in advance





Steve

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MGF TF Bonnet

£60 delivered. Next day delivery.

Le Manns Green

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mgf RIFLED exhast

does anyone know or have come accross a rifled exhaust system for mgfs?

like inside a rifle the barrel has a thread type ream in the bore that helps spin the bullet as it exits the gun, ive heard of car manufactures like bentley who have done this to the manifold to help create an air vortex and allow the exhaust gasses to exit out of the exhaust faster, hence more horsies to play with.



im curious if there is a company that can do this, and to what cost?

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Wrongly advertised item on eBay

It is amazing how wrong these roof racks are advertised on eBay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Roof-Rack-...item418b41b165



This advert can lead in buying item for wrong use. Unless given exact part number it is impossible to know if these roof racks are for R400 or R600, but they surely are not for R200...

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Vitesse Alloys - New OEM wheel nuts, bargain price.

Having recently acquired some 17" Vitesse alloys for my soon to be on the road 620ti, I was looking for some new OEM wheel nuts for them. Having realised that Rimmer's want about £180 for a set of 16, I did some searching and found a full set of TF/ Montego nuts which are exactly the same brand new for £18 for a full set of 16, a real bargain. They have now arrived ( I bought 2 sets), and I can confirm they are the correct nuts.



The seller, I believe, has plenty of stock and HERE is the link.

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help!!!

Hi guys I have a 2003 1.8 mgtf I have just done the hg on it and it now won't start. I have checked the timing and everything is OK in that front. I have good compression and I have good spark. I have changed the plugs and the ht leads are new. Does this sound like it could be the cam shaft sensor or something else?



Any help will be much appreciated cheers

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FAO David2000

Trying to reply to your PM. Your storage is full so i cannot reply.



My reply is : Thats right mate. Both discs needed.

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Clutch stuck.

Going to post this here so more people see, as I could do with the help, but the car in question is a rover k series 1.6 coupe, with the gear box from a ZR 105.



So the clutch had a small judder to it earlier today, 5 or so miles later clutch down into first depress clutch and I have no drive. Had to tow it back.



So the symptoms are, car can be in any gear with clutch pedal 'up' and it wont budge or stall its like its permanently in neutral.



I know my way around cars but clutches im not so good with, to me it sounds as if the clutch is stuck to the flywheel if that's even possible, if so can't see why this has happened.



Secondly I always thought when a clutch was going to fail it slipped, where as I haven't noticed any slipping at all.





What I have already done/checked:

Started car in every gear,

Press & Depressed clutch pedal 50 or so times

Checked the linkage from gear stick to box and this all correct and working.

Clutch cable is all still connected up - not sure if it needs adjusting however.



Any help to diagnose it would be greatly appreciated.

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MG ZT 190+ for sale

Hi Guys,



I had been a proud owner of this lovely motor but time has come. I had a minor accident here. A guy with a rental car had run into the left hand side of the car coming out from a petrol station. The car got a rear door, wheel arch and rear bumper damaged. Here in Ireland it doesn't worth to repair it because she is a little bit costly to run (around €1100 for a year to tax and similar to insure it).



I had looked after her very well. Always serviced on time. Last year I had a European trip with it (around 6000-7000km at the end) and she had gave no problem at all. I could even enjoy the beautiful German motorways with it.



Recently she got:

-New shocks at the front

-New exhaust system

-New brakes front and rear

-Timing belt + water pump was done @ 90k miles

-4 new tyres (~3 months ago)



Link for pictures here.



I can bring the car to Holyhead and even a bit further if somebody is interested.



Please send me PM if you need more info.

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ZR Heater Knobs

Hi does anyone know if its possible to put the mk2 heater knobs on a mk1?

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H/light

Which way does the wire clip holding the H/light bulb in come undone on dipped beam (outer head light). Any help will be much appreciated. R45

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MG ZT+ dashboard lights

Need help, my dashboard lights on my 2003 MG ZT+ don't come on when I turn my headlights on but may come on occasionally after a little while. If I was to flick up the rear near side window button on the drivers door I can make the lights flash.. Any ideas ?

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Cutaways of 143 VVC exhaust ports (picture heavy)

Last year I posted this note on the inlet ports of the VVC head:

http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?t=503432



This is the follow up, although the sections are not as exciting - Exhausts rarely are.



The sections are the opposites to the inlets in that thread:









The first section is the one on the cam pulley end.

The second section shows this:





The port has a very fast transition from the seat (left hand side) to the floor of the port, although compared to some 16v heads of the same vintage (and newer) it's much better.

This is probably driven by:

1. The need to keep the port diameter at a reasonable size to prevent choking

2. The need to keep the overall head height as low as possible, probably to make engine packaging across a range of cars easier.



The other item of note is the bump after the valve guide boss. If you look at the inlets you can see the port swoops down, gets shifted for the boss, then re-establishes.

Here, for the exhausts, the boss just carries on a bit further.



The reason for this top bump is this cross passage for the water.

The exhaust side of a head is always the hottest, so needs more cooling, preferably in the form of jets.

Jets, rather than normal, wide (relatively speaking) passages are useful as the high flow velocity creates a lot of turbulence, which helps to scavenge the surface better than a slower flow.

When they expand into larger passages they help mixing as well.



The cross passage is marked here:





This is how it refers to the overall shape:







The mid-line of the port can be seen here, with it's waterway from the coolant passage clearly visible. This passage lines up with a hole in the head gasket to, presumably, let water have a preferential path to the block to mix the rather hot coolant with a cooler mass in the block jacket:





If those waterways were not there no.4 cylinder would get cooked, due to 1,2 and 3 pushing very hot water from around their exhaust ports down to it.







The flow path can perhaps be better visualised with a valve and a seat in place:









and here:







The individual ports from the seat to the exhaust gasket face are quite square, rather than trying to maintain a rounded profile and squishing them together to get to the round hole at the gasket face.

A square has a worse perimeter to area ratio than a circle, for a given required area, which means both more heat transferring surface (and thus more heat dumped to the head) and more wetted perimeter for the gas flow, meaning more pressure losses.

I assume that the packaging and cooling requirements took over in the development - it wasn't done on whim i'm sure.



I've modified a few of these now after cutting this up last year, and the rules i've given myself are:

1. Smooth & blend - the casting is rough (you can see the core shifts in some pictures)

2. Polish - shiny reflects heat (this helps gas velocity + the head itself) and prevents as much carbon build up as would otherwise happen.

3. Don't eat too much from the back of the valve guide boss - to prevent breaking in to the waterway. Measure, measure, measure and then measure again.

4. Cut back the bifrucation between the ports and knife edge it - i've not really shown this, but look at my head threads and it should be visible.





I've not made a silicone plug of the ports yet, but I have bought more RTV to do so, so I can get measurements for CFD.

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Doors and boot

I have both doors in silver comes with everything but door cards.Attachment 84281slight rust spot on bottom edge and just in front of trim. £25

Attachment 84289 slight scuff on door trim £25

Attachment 84297boot good comes with lock (no inner trim) slight rust round screw holes for number plate. £40

Collection please or you can arrange postage from Kendal Cumbria.

Attached Images

	ImageUploadedByAG Free1417368198.175744.jpg (42.8 KB)
	ImageUploadedByAG Free1417368293.360230.jpg (40.2 KB)
	ImageUploadedByAG Free1417368376.440562.jpg (49.9 KB)

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How bad is no servicing?

I have found a beautiful ZT, well specced. Its the 135 hp BMW diesel engine version. It is in my preferred colour, has the right look to it, has a lovely interior, sat nav (which I'm not too fussed about), cruise control etc. However, the mileage stated in the ad is 208500. When I asked the guy when it was last serviced, he said 176k - 32500 ago if his figures are correct! My first thought was walk away, and it still is really. If a service hasn't been done for that long, what else has been neglected?



However, if the rest of the car was spot on, would you touch it? I would obviously do a full service immediately on it - plugs, filters, oil, probably brake pads etc. My thoughts were that oil probably isn't too much better than water, but how bomb proof are these engines?



Any thoughts much appreciated. If I can't find a good ZT close by soon, I think I'll be buying an Alfa 147 that I went to see this morning.

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A little warning when fitting the inline stat to a diesel.

I have egg on my face..



When fitting the inline stat I found it hard to get the device into the hose. I used a large socket and gently tapped it in with a hammer.



I must have damaged the thermostat because a few weeks later I had a leak of steam from under the bonnet.



The pin from the stat had detached and wedged in the t piece just before the engine. This then split the plastic on this:



http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-PEQ100871



Cue steam pouring out the engine and limping home with temps hovering about 100. Had to stop three times to fill with water.



An easy fix but I will be more careful next time.

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Guess the UK registrations for MG - November 2014

The aim of the game is simple, guess the UK sales figures for MG for the month of November 2014. Whoever is closest to the actual total given by the SMMT early next month wins. Once a number is gone it is gone, you will need to have the closest number to it.



Results are out on Thursday 4th December so I will close the book at 10pm on Tuesday 2nd December. As usual I will be away from a computer that morning so will rely on a stalwart poster to post the results and begin the fallout.



I am still at a loss as to what is happening so I will go down the middle and say 200 with Christmas coming and all that.



JoCoLo - 200

NickTL - 190

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over filled oil

Hi guys had my car fully services around 2 months ago however I checked my oil a few weeks ago and see it was overfull by alot so I did the oil change this morning I've not topped it up since work was done and no coolent loss and no water in oil so rules out head gasket the mechanic has done the job because my new sump washer and filter was on so how can I have around 7 liters in my engine? ?? I'm running on svo but I can't see it mixing :/ help

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Mark Sterling?

I think that is the guys name, probably the biggest enthusiast in N.I on here?



Does anyone know if he still works on customers ZR's? I have a few issues with my ZR (boosting & electrics) and I believe he would be the guy to fix them.

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2 tone immobiliser bleep and car won't start.

So,the key turns to position 2 and the 2 tone bleep goes off.The car won't turn over.



I call out Roadside Assistance,he plugs in the ODB and fault 0304 ( camshaft sensor related) appears on the readout.



Is it something as simple as just replacing the sensor,or could it possibly be something more complicated?

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Rover 45 GSI

Hi everyone my drivers side window as stopped working could it be the switch or something eles

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Lower arm

Hello all,



about a year ago when dismantling my ZS's front end to remove the engine due to the driver side driveshaft ripping its mountings off the block and rendering the engine scrap, one of the lower ball joints refused to let go of the lower arm.



In haste I thought it clever to split the lower arm in two by removing the two nuts holding it together and remove the knuckle and half the arm as one bit then separate them later.



After doing this I checked rave to find the torque settings only to find that your never supposed to separate the two bits.



Just wondered if anyone knows why? the way its built it should all go back straight and true, could it be they're stretch bolts or something?



I'm having a hell of a time finding a replacement, don't trust ordering a new one on-line as when I cross reference them even though they say for a 180, they fit all models and I'm sure the 180 has larger ball joints.



Also all the people I've contacted who are breaking 180's don't want to sell this bit as it stops it being a rolling chassis for scrapping.

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Rolling Road Results Area 52 Nov 2014

As some people may know a few of the usual reprobates met up at a rolling road today for a bit of a laugh.



I hope you enjoy the results

The overall Table.







Jamie - ZR
Power and Torque Graph





Power and Boost graph







Martin - ZR

Power and Torque graph (no boost graph as it wasn't reading right)







Mat 620Ti

Power and Torque graph





AFR and Boost graph (scary AFR's!)







Chaz - ZS diesel

Power and Torque graph





Power and Boost graph (scary boost!)





Me - 220Gti turbo

Power and Torque graph





AFR and boost graph

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Catalyst General Failure

Hi all,



Been advised to post this as a new thread, so here goes:



I have recently had a new stainless steel exhaust system fitted (exhaust manifold back) including a new cat (aftermarket, I assume, not OEM) However, about a week after the system was installed, the dreaded EML light came on. T4 diagnostics showed 'P0420 Catalyst General Failure'. After resetting the stepping and fuel adaptions, and clearing the fault codes, the EML light came on again a few days later. Took car back to exhaust dealer, who moved an 02 sensor because it was too close to the cat and therefore getting too hot. This seemed to fix it, but after a 200 mile run this week, the EML light is back on again and I am back to square one. The exhaust dealer claims the cat has passed an emissions test and there's nothing wrong with it, so I don't know if they will sanction a replacement under warranty as it does not seem faulty. So I have 3 questions - what are the chances of a faulty 02 sensor, can an O2 sensor be cleaned, and is there a secondary upstream cat in the Rover 45 1.6 that could be faulty (and how would I know?) Thanks in advance, JTizzle.

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ZS TD Speedo Issue

Was cruising today at about 50-60 in 5th, I felt the car jerk, looked at the speedo and it dropped to 0, then power came back but no where near as quick as it was power wise..



Iv checked all fuses, connection to the speedo sensor, changed the speedo sensor for a known good one.. What else can it be?



It's not the diff bearings either, they are fine.



I'm thinking the actual speedo drive in the box has sheered maybe?



Doubt it's the speedo at fault either as if it was a speedo fault that wouldn't effect how it's driving, iv got reduced power and it's very jerky when I let off etc..



Anyone ever had this before? It was completely random..



The car does have ABS but don't think it's an ABS issue as the speedo runs off the gearbox not ABS on the diesels, and it would bring on the ABS light if there was a split reluctor ring or fault surely? The ABS still works spot on..



Is there anything else I can try?



Cheers

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Hello from Spain

I'm not very good at speaking English but try to understand me best. I have a Rover 45 2.0 iDT with 120,000 miles and hopefully last me much longer. I will use the translator because otherwise be difficult to tell some things. At the moment I 'm waiting for engine mounts . I will make photos of the installation process to try to help as much as possible to those who do not know much about mechanics. I'm studying for automotive technician , anything where I can be happy to help . My brother is in Scotland so maybe ended up visiting your land next summer. Greetings to all

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Rough runner F

Well the other half keeps nagging for me to have a look at her F as she says its running rough when its started from cold. It apparently behaves itself when warmed up. Bit of a pain as the hardtop is fitted.

It sounded ok to me so I left it to run up while I had a look at the reason that the SRS light was on.

After it had warmed up I noticed it developed a bit of a misfire. Not a bad one but a misfire. So while it was running I checked that the plug on the throttle pot was on properly. As soon as I just touched that plug with one finger The revs climbed quite a bit and stayed there till I bliped the throttle, and the revs went back to the correct tick over. I did it again and the same thing happened. Everything looks ok. Plug is on and its not loose.

is this usual with these things or am I looking at a throttle body fault? Or maybe a new pot needed?

I'm toying with the idea of changing the body for the ally version. If I do that, Does anyone know what the part number for the ally one would be as there seams to be a few to choose from.

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Dyno run today Zr td 159 bhp and 270 ft lbs.

Really chuffed with what it managed to do next step shall be fmic then i'm pretty much done :)

Sdi injectors

Egr blank

Decat

Janspeed backbox

Air filter and mafam

22.5 psi

Remapped

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Rover 45 MK II on 53 plate?

This overtook me today. Should be at least an 04 plate but has a BX53 registration, is it a prototype :confused:

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Some notes on the Piper 270 VVC exhaust cam

I thought that someone would like to see a Piper 270 exhaust cam.



This is standard VVC exhaust cam (top) and a Piper 270 (bottom)





The Rover part has a code cast into it, the Piper is blank;





The Rover has a part number on it, the Piper does note;





The rover has a blank cam pulley boss





The Piper has 270 and a code which reads (on this on) 113;





These next two are poor work on my behalf, but it is hard to show the lobes in a neutral position

Std:





Piper:





If you close your eyes and feel them you can feel the difference - the flanks of the 270 do feel thicker - but this is difficult to explain in words.





The lobe widths are as shown:





The lobe + radius of base circle (in mm) are as shown:





The cam only has longer duration, not higher lift by the looks of it.





When my V blocks arrive i'll gauge them up for angle vs. lift.

This will be a while though.

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intalling gps tracker on mg6

Hello.

Recently I decided to install GPS tracker device on my mg6.

Anybody know where would be a good place to put a little box 3x3 inch. Also it requires 12 volt power directly from battery (even when ignition is off gps needs to have power)

I was thinking somewhere underneath glove department maybe...

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mgzs td diesel pump

hi just done the timing solenoid on pump to try to cure this tractor syndrome but hasnt made any difference . my mate whos mechanic said he think it could be injectors as its making knocking noise also some said could be manifolds is this the gaskets as i have done egr valve thanks

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exhaust fumes in the cabin

Hi all,



I've noticed since the cold has kicked in and I've needed to use the fan blower, I'm getting a noticeable smell in the cabin, makes the car a displeasure to drive.





I took it to my regular garage and they found no issues with the exhaust system, which was replaced in April, or intercooler pipes.



The car has sdi s and did have the paperclip in the maf cable which has been removed now. I've also removed and blanked the egr which gives me a thought.



Recently after a coolant pipe popped off on the motorway, the car severely overheated. I'm wondering if the excess heat may have melted the gasket under the blanking plate causing a bad seal and exhaust gasses to leak out.



Is there any home test to visually check if there's a leak here before I just go ahead and regasket and tighten?



Or any other things to check?



Cheers

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Carbon Fibre door trims

Hi guys

I just started a thread in the For Sale section for two pairs of carbon fibre door trims.



Make a nice Christmas pressie for someone.



http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?t=723345

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Carbon Fibre door trims for sale

Hi guys

After many months talking about I finally got off my bum and got a couple of sets of carbon fibre door trims finished. These are the door trims at the top of the TF and MkII F doors which are normally black plastic or painted alloy.

I fitted one today and took a few photos.



Please note, these are real carbon fibre, not dipped or skinned. I made a mould from an old pair of trims and then used the mould to make these.















These photo's were taken with a flash as it was getting dark by the time I was taking them so the weave is standing out more than it would normally, and the contrast with the rest of my black trim is greater. The second last photo is probably more like they really look and I suspect they would look awesome on a car a cream interior.



Here is a thread in another forum where I showed the process to make them.



http://www.talkcomposites.com/12151/...eywords=alibro



So a few questions and answers

1. Are they perfect?

Err no. They are not perfect and if you look at them closely you will see marks from the moulding process and as I am not a professional painter the lacquer isn't perfect either, but having said that I am being super critical as once fitted you would have to look very closely to see the faults.



2. Ok so they're not perfect but do they look good?

Oh yes, they look great. The difference between real CF and having parts dipped is enormous. CF has a depth and a 3D quality that dipping or wrapping in vinyl doesn't have.



3. Are they a perfect fit?

Mmmm not quite perfect but as you can see from the photo's pretty close. They might need a little fettling to get them to fit perfectly.

When making a mould it is very difficult to replicate the exact shape of the area where the door handle trim mates with these trims so I did the best I could without spending many more hours looking for perfection.



4. Are they lighter than standard?

LOL, Yes, the originals are 125g each and mine are around 90g so should knock a few tenths off your 0 - 60 time.



5. Did it take long to do them?

Yes! many hours and a fair bit of money was spent on materials. Having said that I didn't do this for the money but more for the challenge and the fun. If I was a professional I could make them much more quickly but for the moment this is just a bit of fun.



6. How much are they?

I made two pairs and one came out a little better than the other so I am asking £75 and £60 delivered, now wouldn't that make a lovely Christmas present. :-)

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Wrong rear tyres?

Hi all,



I've just bought a 2003 MG TF 160 Sprint. She's in need of a bit of TLC but so far so good. Anyway, I noticed today that it has 4 Yokohama tyres on that are all the same size. Shouldn't the rear tyes be 215/40/16 and not 195/45? I'd rather replace all 4 together after the winter as these still look in good shape but is it really bad to be running it like this?



Other things needed are:



New horn as if doesn't work

Passenger seat belt (ordered from breaker)

New throttle cable

New headlights or the plastic covers if they come separate



I'm keeping an eye on coolant levels as they were low and there is no record of the HG being done, so I'm expecting that as a job before long.



This site has been great reading for tips in my first week of ownership, so thanks :-)

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MK2 ZS Rear Bumper Spats (hatch)

Have been drilled previously for mudflaps Attachment 84241Attachment 84249



£45 posted

Attached Images

	ImageUploadedByAutoGuide1417278304.964282.jpg (48.9 KB)
	ImageUploadedByAutoGuide1417278318.830716.jpg (50.0 KB)

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Reverse bleeding the clutch master

This may be a daft question, but when you reverse bleed the clutch does the clutch pedal need to be depressed or not?

Not a mechanic.....but want to learn!



Thanks

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Mg tf seat pattern

hello, to the forum.

Is possible to find out the dimension of the seats pattern, so to cut myself, leather pieces and fit them.

I have seen here in forum a "seat guide" but can't find it again!

Any help will be welcome!

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MG ZR X-Power Diesel Springs (Copies)

These are MG ZR X-power Diesel spring copies from the original .org group buy. They lower an MG ZR 25mm (an additional 5mm over the genuine X-power springs).



They'll also fit the Rover 25 or 200.



Not suitable for K-series powered cars but great for T16 conversions.



A few scuffs from fitting but perfect working order.



I'm looking for £115 delivered on a next day courier. Collection welcome from CW9.

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Mk2 Bits - Free

I have a electric window regulator and central locking mechanism from a mk2 zs front passenger side hatchback that's done 30k miles. Both in full working order and now not required. These are free to anyone that wants them post if interested will put some picks up soon



thanks

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Coolant in expansion tank stays cold

Hey folks,

technical question about my 45 1.8: just came home from a 100 mile drive and noticed that the water in the expansion tank is cold, but heater blows lovely hot air, car drives as good as always, oil and water level are fine, no bubbles, no oil in water... anything to worry about?

I am thinking the reason might be the intensive use of the heater (getting pretty cold over here one).

What do you think?

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620Ti gearbox with Type B diff.

As mentioned in the title, I have a Ti box with type B diff fitted. The engine is being used in a Tourer Turbo conversion and I've decided to fit a Type A coupe box.



£150 ovno collected or can deliver within 50 miles of Stockport or Clitheroe at cost.



Cheers, Dave.

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