mardi 31 mars 2015

Troubleshooting injector 1

A few months ago I bought some Freelander injectors off eBay for my ZR TD. On installing them (with new washers etc) the car had a steady misfire that wouldn't go away. Cracking off the unions at the top of each injector one at a time revealed the problem to be injector 1. Unplugging the wire to this one, cleaning the contacts etc didn't make a difference.



I swapped the Freelander injector 1 for the original ZR one and it went back to a steady idle a few seconds after firing. I won the case on eBay and returned the set (guy tried to claim they were working fine on removal...yeah right), but the dumbass wasn't in and didn't pick them up from the depot so they got sent back to me after a few weeks.



Seeing as I have these effectively free injectors I may as well try and get number 1 working. Anyone got any ideas as to what's likely to be wrong, and what I should be looking for after dismantling?





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2005 mgzr help

When you turn the key to 11 hazard lights start flashing and red LED flashing, turn to III nothing! Anybody any ideas?





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2005 mgzr

When you turn the key to 11 hazard lights start flashing and red LED flashing, turn to III nothing! Anybody any ideas?





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sdi injectors/oval backbox for zr

I'm after a set of sdi injectors if anyone has a set they want to sell?

Also after a nice backbox preferably an oval possibly a twin if anyone has one



Cheers

Lew





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zr derv owner from grimsby!

Hi everyone ,after scouting around for a while I have just bought myself an mg zr 2.0 td,

One of my friends had one a while back and that got me onto the idea,

Plenty of mods to hopefully come & iv found this site very useful,I look forward to hearing from you guys



Anyone local give me a shout!



Lewis





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Three Ring Rear Black Lights MG TF

Guys I Posting this one to say Please if anyone has any Three Ring Black MG TF Rear lightsthey want to sell send me a PM as I have cash here to buy them!



Kind Regards



Beachy. .



:)





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Mgf to tf airbox?

Hiya

I'm wanting to change my mgf's airbox to a tf dual air cooled box an going to put a k&n panel filter inside, an have a few ?s



Are all tf airbox's dual air cooled?



Does it fit into the mgf old air box position easily?



Thanks nick





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MG TF Rear Light Help

Hi Guys,



Ain't been on for a while but in need of a litte help.. I've come up against a bit of a wall!



Im looking for a set of the lexus type rear lights, they are the one's with the black back with three circle lights, the reverse and indicator bulbs have a red reflective ring around them.



Any ideas where I can get a new set folks?



Thanks for any help :)





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Had to change the Lambda.

After weeks of rough riding,it was time to get to the bottom of it,so NGK plugs fitted,new leads fitted,new camshaft sensor fitted - but still stalling at low revs and misfiring like a good 'un from cold start up.



And with no management lamp to give me a clue,I took a chance and replaced the O2 sensor.



Bingo ! Running normal again.





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Potentially buying a ZR

Hopefully seeing a ZR tonight. No MOT on it, but only 58,000 miles. Seller says Head Gasket has been done.



Its 04 plate, 1.4 only 58,000 miles. 2 previous owners. I was just looking for something cheap to try out a track day (MG3 is my daily driver).



I think I know the main things to look for, electrics, rust, the obvious HGF symptons. The reason I am really interested is the price...... listed £250 ono



Anyway does this seem like a good idea?



The wife thinks not! haha





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coilovers and bumpstop washer

Trying to reassemble my gaz coilovers after getting them refurbished however I can't get ahold of a bump stop washer to go between the rod and top mount. Im lead to belive that not having this washer in will cause the rod to puncture through the top mount , not ideal especially as this will be for track use so will be under alot of force

the part number is egp1706 however rimmerbros are out of stock as are the two other sites that list the part. The Honda version is also apparently unavailable so would it be possible to use a similar sized penny washer or is the metal not strong enough ?





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Thinking of trying the AP 2 pot calipers

As we have to replece or rebuild the front calipers on this 75th and looking through the options these new Alloy AP 2 piston calipers look to be a good buy.



I phoned Bigg Red but it seems they are not really interested in doing MGF calipers as their quote was £250 for a set of frotn and rears and that IS WITH their set discount or "just" £130 to recondition the fronts. Looking around this is more than other refurbishment and reconditioning firms so obviously Bigg Red is out of the equation.



One can purchased a reconditioned pair of front calipers off ebay for £94.90 then get a bit back when you send in your old calipers which makes this quite a bit cheaper than Bigg Red one must agree.



However then we come to the new alloy AP 2 pot (piston) calipers offered by several sellers including MG Mania and these new calipers are being offered from between £90-£120 depending on which site and to which vendor one looks too. Now as we aslo need new discs then this item does not influence the decision by much as although the 3044mm Discs cost a little more it.s not really a largeamount in price differecne and depending on where one shops there can be no or even a positive difference in favour or the 304's. ECP currently has Pagid discs for the AP's on offer in their ebay shop I see.



Am just awaiting confirmation that the disc pads are indeed available before making the final decision. As after all cost wise is seems to make sense!





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Fancy a 28 litre car to potter to the shops in?

Now THIS is a serious car! Note the pedestrian warmer and the the lack of a need for a horn...



The Beast of Turin





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Another potential R8 project for somone!

Had this R8 since 2007 and its always been look after very well and regulary serviced and no expense spared really its just ticked over 200K and still runs very well on its original Honda engine.



My dad has been using it for the last few years and last year had one of the rear arches repaired professionally by having the rust cut out and a new repair panel welded in and then painted.



[/url]











around xmas a taxi driver crashed into him denting and scraping both doors on the drivers side and he has since bought a pair of replacement doors but these havent been fitted yet.



he has too many cars and sadly this one needs to go but would be a great project for anyone and overall its in good condition for its age there is rust on the front wheel arches which is surface as is the passenger side rear arch.



however the worst was on the drivers side which has been repaired.











































please contact me if interested or if you need more info and the car is based in Reading.







Thanks





Pav





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MG GS SUV Chinese TV advert with Benedict Cumberbatch

Here's the full version of the Chinese TV advert for the MG GS (which stands for Grand SUV) starring Benedict Cumberbatch:



http://ift.tt/1G37BEX



It was shot around London including at the Old Royal Naval College in Greeenwich as well as on Tower Bridge.



Enjoy!





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Bonnet strut

Anyone has mounted one of these: http://ift.tt/1l2hOoY



I was planning to buy one and get rid of the bonnet support.





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Left over piece after rebuild!!

I've just rebuilt the engine after a head gasket replacement which I did myself. The only problem is it was initially stripped down by Rover mobile mechanics and I have a left over bracket that I can't find a home for. Does anyone have any idea where this goes....



http://ift.tt/1xSuR60








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PRESS Release - MG OPENS MULTI-MILLION DEALERSHIP IN THE HEART OF LONDON





MG has announced it will open a prestigious multi-million pound flagship dealership in the heart of London’s Piccadilly.



The exclusive showroom, next to The Royal Academy of Arts and directly opposite Fortnum & Mason, is one of the most sought-after retail locations in the world.



MG’s showroom will become a centre of excellence for the iconic 91-year-old brand which is Britain’s fastest growing marque. This is the latest and most significant move in a major expansion of new MG dealerships across the country. In the past 12 months MG has opened 26 new dealerships in Britain, and has declared its intention to continue growing by targeting a further 30 open points.



London was a key goal in MG’s ambitious plans to substantially build its dealer network. It was considered vital for MG to have a flagship presence in the UK’s capital city, right at the heart of the growing UK economy. This is a statement of intent that MG is back in Britain and playing a significant role in the thriving British automotive sector.



MG’s Piccadilly showroom will become one of the most important centres of excellence for MG, a brand that now sells in more than 40 countries globally and is instantly recognizable as an icon of great British design and engineering.



The six-car showroom will be housed in a seven-storey Georgian-fronted building at 47/48 Piccadilly and will incorporate a state of the art showroom with interactive media centre so customers can configure their own car.



As part of the investment, totaling almost £30-million, the building has been sympathetically refurbished and substantially upgraded to accommodate the MG showroom.



MG will run the flagship showroom on the ground floor with offices in the basement. Above are six floors of executive offices. The MG showroom will open in a few weeks time.



The whole of the historic building, just 400yds from Piccadilly Circus, is much closer to the landmark statue of Eros than Audi’s flagship showroom. It will give MG an extremely prestigious display showroom in one of the busiest cities in the world.



Matthew Cheyne, Head of Marketing, said: “This really is a fabulous central London location where the City of Westminster and the West End theatreland merge. It shows that MG is really back and is becoming a major force again in the British automotive industry.



“This address is, without a doubt, one of the most sought-after international locations and we can’t wait to do business from there.”



Cheyne said that the choice of the prime address in the heart of the nation’s capital was highly significant. He added: “If anyone had any doubts about MG’s commitment to the future, this is a hugely positive statement that MG is back and here to stay.



“This is a very significant investment by MG and we are immensely proud of this fantastic showroom. You simply could not get a more prestigious location in Britain.”





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Wheel hub/knuckle compatibility.

Hello gents. On Rimmerbros there are different part numbers for the hubs across some of the models. My ZS TD should take a RBK100480 on the drivers side but will it take say a RBK100370 which is listed for the smaller petrol engines? I'm trying to get a get out of jail free option off of ebay.



Cheers guys.





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PRESS RELEASE - You would be a fool to miss it - Latest dealer opens on the 1st April

It’s no joke – MG’s latest dealer will start trading on April 1 as the brand’s surge in sales continues.



Normandy Garage, in Guildford, will become the 26th new dealer to be appointed within the last 12 months as sales of modern MG’s hit new record levels.



Last year MG was the fastest growing automotive brand in Britain and results for the first quarter of 2015, due out soon, are expected to show an even further acceleration of sales.







Ian Richards, Managing Director of Normandy Garage, said: “It’s thrilling to be involved in this fantastic resurgence of such a great brand. We don’t want to waste any time in selling the cars, that’s why we want to go live on April 1 just as soon as our cars arrive - anyone interested in a brilliant new MG would be a fool to miss out!



“We will have 11 new MG3s at launch and in fact we’ve had a lot of interest from customers because our MG signage is already in place. This is a brand that is going places.”



Normandy Garage is a family-owned business which was started by Ian’s father, John Richards in 1966. The modern, six-car showroom, backed by four workshop bays, is in Guildford Road, Normandy; mid-way between Guildford town centre and Aldershot. It has a staff of 18 people.



Ian said: “Having driven the new MGs and been to see the operation at Longbridge, I’m really positive about MG. In fact, I’m already looking ahead and thinking of expanding our showroom to cope with the new MGs products that are coming along.



“It’s too easy to under-estimate just how good the new MGs are. You only have to drive them to understand what brilliant dynamics they have and you just have to look at the price and high standard specifications to see why MGs make so much sense to so many people.”





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wingy downpipe rare

downpipe 2,5" plug & play by wingy, thank's





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Rover 75 1.8 petrol (1999 year) Engine problem.

The problem is...When i start the car all is good and drive smooth but after 3 minutes of driving the car starts to choke and have no respons on gas pedal. Presing clutch and presing gas pedal on about 3000rpm 3,4 times the car starts to response normaly and all is good. Same problem when the motor is warm or cold. I have checked all sensor but seams ok. Have any idea wath culd be or have any the same problem?





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Sunroof spares question

Hi all,



My sunroof decided to stop halfway closed at the weekend , unfortunately it did rain on the way home!

After stripping it down i found the cog that sits on the motor shaft has fractured.



Is there a spares solution for this or does the cog come complete with a sunroof assembly or motor assembly? Obviously the motor and the sunroof track and drive are fine, it's just the cog.



Yours Hopefully!





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lundi 30 mars 2015

how to install windows 95

hi to all

I want to install windows 95 on my laptop which is currently running xp is it possible I have tried to install but it wont allow me to until I have shut down windows nt can anyone help

all the best david





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Black Betty upgrading

hello guys i think i had a thread before but cant remember, have a mk2 zs in PBT it requires a bit of love and 'improvements' done have a few plans for her as its dark will get pics of her currently and update as i go along, interior, exterior and mechanical things all to be done but will update tomoro.





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Change seat belt

Question: to change seatbelts, I simply unscrew the old ones or I have to disable airbag and such?





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160 vvc making 143 power

So I'm on my second ZR 160 and recently had it rolled where it made 120 at the wheels, this was on a stock exhaust system and enclosed air filter (without a cold air feed was just resting in the lower half of the airbox)

My previous made 115 at the wheels with same intake but janspeed backbox although i dont think it lost power because of the janspeed before anyone takes it that way



Keep seeing people quoting 170-175hp but is that because other peoples vvc are making higher stock figures or just decent modifications push it from 145 to 170?



Spend more time around 306 gti6 cars and they generally hold their stock power even on higher mileages it seems,so is the k series just a sucker for loosing power over time?





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Radiator issues!!!

Hi guys right after having a right nightmare with eurocar parts giving me the wrong rad twice I finally got the correct one......... so I thought (stupid I know I should have payed more attention, but my rad has two holes each side now? my old one had them blanked off is there anything I can do?





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Alternator swap?

Hello,could any member advise me weather a alternator from a 1800 ZT fit a 1800 F ,greatfull

For info,Thanks.





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What happens if my battery goes flat?

What happens if my battery goes kaput and i dont have the key code for the imobiliser..do you get a pin code or something to reset the car?





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Scrapping the Grey MGf

After a lot of soul searching I have decided I have to scrap the grey MGf because it just isn't economically viable to restore it as I already have two MGf's on the road, although it has an MOT a good VVC engine there are lots of things that need replacing and this is before it gets a paint job.

The car needs a new exhaust and cat, 4 new tyres, new rear window, new wiper motor (I knicked the one off it for the silver F), new coil pack as well as a full respray.

It isn't the labour costs as I would have done all the work myself but the costs of all the bits needed to get it right and then at the end of all that work I would have a car worth less than I would have spent on it plus I really need the space to start my other project.



So today I dragged the car to the workshop and started to strip it, hopefully it will be done for weekend.



The bits I salvage will probably be worth more than a fully restored MGf of the same age and I intend storing what I might need in the future like suspension spheres, window motors, the heater motor, gear linkages, wheels, the hood, the ignition system including all locks, I might even take off the subframes and restore them to save for future use and of course the VVC motor which has no issues.



So a couple of pictures of it's demise.



















Tomorrow I'll drain the fluid out of the suspension and get the car on axle stands, remove the spheres and start prepping the engine for removal.





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hi to all newbie owner

hi I only recently brought a rover 75 cdti well just under a week and well I was wondering wheather anyone on here has changed a clutch on a rover 75 cdti as my clutch has gone and garages want mega money I was wondering is this an easy job any help much appreciated





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Front Lower Wishbones fitted... not too bad.

Hi all, I had read lots of horror stories regarding the above and decided to try and lubricate all of the various nuts and bolts to death. I used a full tin of plusgas and left it 24 hours with occasional re-applications. It worked a treat and every nut and bolt came free easily - no drama and no problems.



The job went pretty much as described in the "how to" but just a couple of things...



The bottom ball joint (on the wishbone) was a bit of a swine to remove - the bolt was very tight to undo and had to be drifted out and then a jack was used underneath to raise the wishbone and the balljoint was levered down and off. A ball joint separator is really needed.



I did not touch any of the bolts holding the front of the subframe - just the rear ones and the antiroll bar. The subframe came down easily with a gentle bit of persuasion so that the rear long bolts could be removed.



All of the brakes and discs were left as is. No need to remove them.



The bolts that hold the antiroll bar at the wheel end were very tight and corroded - use LOTS of release agent!



Fitting the new wishbones was easy but lining up the holes for the bolts was a bit of a faff... just wiggled the wishbone about until the bolts slid in.



Raising the subframe back into position requires 2 trolley jacks to make it easy - however be careful to ensure the top of the suspension does not foul the bodywork under the bonnet - mine did and I had to alter the angle of the jack to get enough clearance for it to locate properly.



The bottom ball joint has a groove to allow the bolt to pass through - note that the joint does not go fully into its housing - if you push it all the way in the bolt will not slide through!



Undo the steering bolt inside the car (next to the clutch pedal - the shaft just pushes up out of the way).



Other than that, make sure you have 6 sided sockets, 2 trolley jacks, a pry bar (or joint splitter) and LOADS of Plusgas or similar!!!



I took some pics but the phone camera is so bad they are useless - sorry.





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fan problems

how do i no whst speed my fan is mgzt180 i cant see no resistor through the bumper? the fan is not working when i switch on the air con, wud the lack of gas stop thefan from operating also have no high speed fan temp has been up 110 degrees and still no fan?





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key blanks?

Just a quick question are rove 25 and mg tf key blanks the same



cheer

saul





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Digimafam Tuning Box for sale

As the title suggests, I'm selling my Digimafam tuning box previously used on my Rover 45 L series diesel.



Great bit of kit, turned my driving experience from fairly brisk to kick in your pants rapid off the mark!



All works absolutely fine, selling due to trading in my rover for a new car last Saturday.



Looking for £60 ono including postage, all offers welcome. Will trade for a tuning box to fit a Seat Toledo 1.2tsi! :D



[I believe I have the instructions for it, and will include if I dig em out ;)]



Edit: Identical to what's being sold here: http://ift.tt/1bJy4e1





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Connector, where does it connect???

Hi,

my car returned from a mechanic(R75 2.5V6), but I found in the engine area a connector that is not connected. I have looked eeevrywhere but couldn't find a place where to connect It. The OBD doesn't show anything. It is somewhere between belts/alternator and chassis and is about 20-30cm long.



It's a connector with a metal clip - 4 wires go there - brown, brown/white, brown/blue and black. Any idea where should it be connected? Tryed Haynes manual but couldn't find anything about it.



Could anybody just open the bonnet and look where does it go please ? Or just take a picture? Thanks a lot.
















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coolant flush

I need to clean out the coolant on my ZS which wasn't done after the head gasket was replaced, whats the best way to flush the system as radflush says it shouldn't be put into the expansion tank, also do I have an air lock in the system as keep having to top up coolant.





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Die-Hard battery!

I went back on Italy on friday afternoon, and back today.



A friend of mine called me on saturday saying that he saw the courtesy light on... ouch!

That's a flat battery for sure :'(



I've switched to halfords leds for mirror light, so I had a bit of hope that they consume so little energy that the battery could survive the weekend with courtesy on.



This morning, around 10:00 I checked that I really left one led on.

I turned ignition on with a sweat and... bang!

Gloria started as nothing happend!



Happy driving :-D





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Sound Proofing - Closed Cell vs Open Cell

Ok, I'm getting a bit lost here!



I just need to know what is best to put in my door along with the sheets of Silent Coat I already have.



Open Cell Foam or Closed Cell? It's road noise I'm trying to rectify!





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MG ZR Arm rest

Hi guys just looking for a armrest for my ZR, from a 216/220turbo/416 tourer.



As any one got one laying arround?



thanks





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mystery plug engine bay

Removed the airbox today (trying to find the rubber cover for the bonnet switch!which went in their somwhere !!) and found a 3 pin plug near the throttle body which dosn't seem to plug into anything.

Looks like the cam sensor type plug ? Anyone know what its is / was for ?

Has a BMW number on it.





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wayward steering

car at low speeds appears fine but above 50 because very wayward and very difficult to keep straight above 60. noticed tyres are not original sizes rears 205 45 16 not the 215 40 16 and front are correct at 195 45 16 but odd tyres





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best what to do coolant change

is there a correct way to do coolant change on my tf 160 sprint? and how many litres? as coolant look horrid and ive no heat out of blowers so gona kill 2 birds with 1 stone see if air lock for blower and coolant certainly needs replacing as does coolant bottle





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PAS pump fitting

I have a rover 25 impression S TD with A/C.



The mechanic has said i need a new PAS pump. The car is off the road so dont want to pay the mechanic to do this as i have all the time in the world to do it.



Is there a guide on here with pics of how to fit a new (2nd hand) one???



Kinley





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vvc manifold

awrite guys is there any difference between the vvcs exhaust manifolds?

i.e rover gti 143 or the vvc tf and the zr 160?





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dimanche 29 mars 2015

Now this is a real Rover 75 ~ NEC Show.

Seen at the Practical Classics Restoration Show at the NEC on 29th March 2015:~



Impressive or what?







The actual Rover 75 :~







The imposing radiator grill Viking Badge :~







The equally impressive badge on the spare wheel boot lid cover :~







Really enjoyed looking at the fabulous old cars there. One or two very amusing exhibits. The driver of this car cannot know if he's coming or going ... ;)







We've all heard of Barn Finds, this must be a Hedge Find :~







As a small boy in the 1950s, I remember standing in front of one of these Jaguars when the massive lights were turned on .... felt the heat :) :~







We took loads of pictures. My son Martin had his ongoing restoration project X-Reg MG Metro 1300 on one of the stands :~







Well done to all who put on this interesting show. I also bought a few quids worth of quality tools at very good prices.





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unlocking issues

Hi all!



Looking for some advice recently my rover 45 1.4 facelift has decided it doesnt like its key fob...



I have to press the button a few times before it will lock or unlock regardless of range, ive changed the battery in the fob which hasnt made any change...



does any one know why this may be occuring has only started happening recently



Thanks Louis





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Zt fg03 znm

Hi guys,



Does anyone on here own my old ZT? Traded it in back in early 2012 and have regretted it ever since. I'd love to know where she ended up.



Hope the old girl is still out there putting a smile on someone's face.





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MG ZR reassurance needed, possible hgf

I've owned my mk2 zr160 for nearly 2 years, 100k on the clock and no history of the head gasket being changed. For the last year or so I've been topping up the water about 0.5 litre every 3 to 4 weeks, so a very small loss and no obvious sign of where it's leaking from.

There's no sign of froth on the dipstick, the oil filler cap shows a very small amount but I've just put that down to condensation from the short daily drives I do, and the expansion tank shows the coolant slightly cloudy but nothing obvious.

The head gasket has come into question since we put a pressure tester on with the hope of spotting a leak but we couldn't see anything, not even inside the car from the heater pipes, yet the system definitely lost pressure. So now I'm beginning to think it's hgf, but before the head comes off, is there anything else that could cause the water loss that wouldn't show a puddle or obvious leak?

Thanks in advance





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MGZR handling

Evening all

I posted a few weeks ago about a mgzr 160 for track days and have some ideas with the direction of the motor I want to go,(got all the bits)

Managed to get a 54 plate face lift model for £230+ admin on a cat C it has vandal damage limited to some glass and a rear 1/4 panel ding or 2 but is a running car.

The plan is to do a good few t/days in stock form while another head at sabre heads is having work. So was wondering what improvements(handling) I can do with little cost as the car is mainly on a back burner this year so the rottex project in my tf can be finished.

Collecting the car thursday so will post a few pics,

I guess I will be on this side of the .org a lot more from now on( sorry 'bout that)

T





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MGTF ap racing calipers on zr

Hi, some of the tf's were fitted with 4-pot ap racing front brake calipers..

Can these be fitted to the zr as an upgrade??





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75 diesel woes. Please help

Hi all. Ok I have a y reg 75 diesel conny that is in fact my dads. He lent it to a friend for about 18 months as long as he looked after it. However this has not been the case. It has just passed an mot last week apparently. If you can help with any of the following it would help a lot!



1. Abs warning light and brake pad warning light on. I'm hoping it's just a poor connection as the front drivers wheel arch liner is in the boot.



2. When the engine is running it's making all the lights flicker, including the dash lights. Also I have no dip beam, the main beam warning light doesn't work, nor does the indicator idiot lights or the audible clicker.



3. Fuel gauge doesn't work.



4. Central locking doesn't work.



5. There's a clunk on the front when braking while reversing, but I'm guessing it's droplink.



6. The climate control is showing 'err' on the display.





It has bloody annoyed me as there are more faults but I know how to fix them and it's obvious he's been using it for work as its full of brick dust and just general crud off building sites.



There will be more as this is what I've noted just driving the ba**ard home.



Thanks guys!





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Rivets

Hello all I'm thinkin about fitting my new top next weekend ! So what i want to know is what size rivets (diameter+length ) do I need to buy before I start this job and also how many . All answers appreciated thanks





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Are all Rover 25/ZR rear subframes the same?

Changing some track control arms today on my 1.4 Rover 25 and when tightening up the drivers side bush eye bolt, the welds holding the captive nut in the subframe gave way. Must of been fairly corroded. To cut a rather frustratingly annoying story short, I need to swap to another subframe.....



My question is, I have located a replacement off a VVC 160. Will I be able to bolt my R65 gear linkage to it as I know the PG1 linkage locates straight onto the gearbox, unlike the mechanism on an R65?



Cheers in advance.



Dave





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mk1 air vent fix?

on my wifes 25 the air vents are all broken and one on my zr,the flaps are all moving around so the air just points all over the place and there is no control



is there a way to fix them and get them back on???

cheers





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ZS 180 front brake shields - part number ?

Hi,



can anyone tell me the part number for the front brake shields for my MK2 ZS 180 ?



Rimmer no longer list them and the "non MG" ones ( http://ift.tt/1ONJHji ) are NLA, I was going to do a little searching for them but could really do with the part number . . .





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K series cam belt covers

As above need all 3 in unbroken condition! If you have bolts to would be helpful :)





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Wanted Rover 75 Tourer Diesel

Hi all I am looking to buy another car and am looking fo a decent low mileage ( less than 90000 ) Rover 75 Tourer cdti diesel.

Must have full service history long mot be is excellent condition inside and out Dark metalic preffered. No towbar!! and be unmodified. I am looking for a reaaly good original example 2004 onwards preffered in unmarked condition I would prefer the higher spec ones but no leather interior if possible.

. Manual or Auto considered. I will require an AA OR RAC inspection on any prospective car ( to old for crawling round under cars now !!) I have the cash waiting for the right vehicle. I am in South Birmingham I can travel within 30 miles of Birmingham or you can bring to me. I work from home so I am flexible regards to when.

I will consider lower spec or slightly older for an exceptional one but has to be the estate.

You can message me at richwk1@hotmail.com





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Wrong size spark plugs

I have a mg zr 1.4 my car was tapping for weeks and i took it to a garage who told me i had to do a oil change and it would go away but no damage was being done the other day then the tapping went away 2 or 3 hours after the tapping went away the plug blew out we have now fitted a 14 x 1.25 helicoil because all the old threads are shot. We bought all new plugs which screw in nicely in our hands the plugs screw into the helicoils out of the car we put the helicoil in snapped the bottom pin of we then tried to screw the plug in but the spark plug is getting cut . The threads on the plug is going flat like a metal ring it feels has tho the spark plug is a little to big for the hole we have rushed t halfords to buy a smaller plug we gave the reg number and she said they was the correct ones for the car but we explained we needed a smaller one and they have told us the zr has the smallest plugs you can get there is no smaller on the thread side i know the helicoil kits come in at 10mm all the way up to 14 and the kit was a 14mm one.So are different size plugs ?What am i doing wrong? I need to find a plug which is a little smaller ?





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Wanted mg zr turbo t16

Looking for a mg zr t16 turbo mk 1 or 2

got cash waiting what you got?



Cheers





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tourer rear side window ariel

hi to all

the radio signal on my rover 75 is very bad and on investigateing I found that the radio ariel connection on the rear window has come away from the glass,it looks like it was soldered to the window any ideas how to fix,i have tried blue tac and tape but does not improve the reception

all the best david





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White smoke on start up only?

Since fitting the SDIs last December I have noticed the car emits white smoke just after starting up, is this to be concerned about?



After start up I only get a puff of black smoke when accelerating hard.



Pierburgh MAF gives correct 20g/s readout on cold start. All leak off pipes have been replaced. Boost turned up to about 19psi. Green cotton Jetex flat air filter.



Top intercooler hose now looks slightly oily on the intercooler end despite tightening up the jubilee clip, I assume that with SDIs fitted the decline of the top hose will be faster (eg rotting from the inside)? Do the silicone ones offer better performance?



Thanks



Neil





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engine stalls

hi folks i have a problem with my car, the car runs fine but when i stop i have to give it a bit more gas before i pull away otherwise it will stall. the car has had a new clutch fitted recently and it changes gears nice and smooth. on tick over it dosent stutter or miss fire. so im a bit stumped on what this problem could be.

oh sorry its a 1.6 k series 1997

it drives fine but soon as i stop and want to pull away i have to increase the revs abit and slowly lift the clutch pedal up otherwise it will stall

any help please





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MG ZR parts - seats and shocks/springs

I have ZR 160 shocks & springs available - £40 (all four)



I have some Mk2 ZR seats available as well. I'm not sure exactly what they are called but here is a pic. Looking for £50 for all seats, plus the door card trims. Good condition no rips. They have the Mk2 wiring loom on the seat belt pre-tensioner but it is easy to swap these over to Mk1. I do have Mk1 pre-tensioners available if you want them.







Edit - forgot to mention on these seats, the rears have a problem with the mechanism to pull the cable and put the seats flat. It is easy enough to take the backs off and fix it, or you can pull the cables with a pair of pliers - I just couldn't be bothered to get it sorted!



MG ZR gear knob £2, leather gaiter for gear stick, £1 (exc postage for either)



PM me or post here. Collection only on the interior, suspension can post but it's not going to be cheap due to weight.



Feel free to make an offer on anything but give me notice if planning on collecting the interior so I can get it out the car!



Also breaking a Rover 25 in HFF (British Racing Green) - thread further down.





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Air Con failure

Was changing the Engine oil yesterday and upon completion I noticed that I'd lost fluid (looks and feels like transparent light oil) Not a lot really - say a cup full. Don't want to switch on the air con in case I do harm.

Location of leak is very near the top of the firewall on the drivers side, close to a switch which is located on the top of a heavy steel pipe which runs along the side of the engine bay and at the firewall, it drops down.

For the life of me I cannot see any source. The area seems clear of any pipework interfering with each other.

All comments appreciated.NB I have noted a lot of white sand like particles around the Engine bay.

thanks

John





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im back

just got back in a mg tf 160 sprint its a bit ruff but was reason for purchase in lqw paint anthracite





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Longbridge ?

Anyone going ?

No mention of POL and there is nothing in events and calendar does not work for me it's stuck on 2014.

I am planning on going again but just wondered if anyone is bothering as there is a deffinate the lack of talk on here this year. Be a shame if nobodiy can be bothered as its 10 anniversary of Longbridge closing this year.





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Bolt Question

On my way to work this morning the damper lower bolt snapped, so instead of doing my proper work I decided to fix it, having use of welders grinders etc, anyway I managed to free the broken bits and the only bolts we have available are cap screws rated at 12.9 so Iv'e fitted one of those to get me home, will this grade of bolt be ok for long term use? or do I need to get the proper 10.9 flange bolts?





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MG TF 115 2003 Trophy Blue (spare/repair)

For sale is Mungo, our '03 TF 115 in Trophy Blue (approx 68k miles iirc). He developed an overheating problem last year after putting him into an MG 'specialist' to repair a fairly straight-forward leak around the coolant pump. Soon after the work, the car overheated during a run, and was never the same after that. Heaters would blow cold, he would overheat unpredictably, and after a lot of time spent going back and forth between different garages for work, the underlying problem was never rectified. We bought an MX5 in the meantime, and now it's time to part with the wee blue beast.



Therefore, sold as spares/repairs although mechanically sound - starts and runs fine. If you're brave, you could drive him away, but you'd need a support car. Probably best on a flatbed!



He's by no means the tidiest example any longer, and has been neglected apart from test runs for almost a year, but he did have a lot of luvvin while in our care and would make a choice donor. There are the common rust spots on the wheelarches and bootlid, plus a couple of other small areas. Also usual wear on the drivers seat bolster. The obvious cooling problem might even be an easy fix that a 'proper' specialist could fix for buttons. If nothing else, someone buying to break would recoup their money - this would be my preferred option but I simply don't have the space, skill or heart to do this on our driveway, so one way or another he will go 'complete'.



I'm trying to recoup some of the costs spent over the last year, so I'm aiming to get at least £1,000. This will of course be revised downward if nobody takes him. If he's not sold by the end of April, he will go on Ebay.



Here's a list of stuff fitted to the car or otherwise sitting in the garage:



- Stainless Steel TT Exhaust Mk 4 (No. 22 of 60 - I'll miss this the most!)

- Mike Satur Mk 3 'Boxer' roll hoops

- Glass wind defelector

- Recently furbished 16" eleven-spoke alloys with Toyo T1R Proxes tyres (fronts close to worn, rears with good tread)

- Full size 'black' spare with Toyo T1R Proxes tyre (rear, good tread)

- Black leather tonneau cover (plus protective Hoodmate)

- AP 4-pot front brake calipers with 304mm grooved front disks

- 'Lexus'-style rear light clusters (plus interior cluster covers)

- Central locking motors (never activated)

- Electric heated wing mirrors and control (retrofit)

- OEM heated seat kit (retrofit)

- SEAT Ibiza front splitter (black)

- Mudguards, front and rear (black)

- Blue alcantara/leather seats and matching doorcards

- Front foglights

- ECU remapped by Z and F Tuning (I'll miss this second most)

- Blue soft-top with heated rear glass screen

- Hardtop with storage bag (It's supposed to be Trophy Blue, but is slightly darker)

- Mike Satur alloy pedal covers

- Alloy fuel filler cap and 'hockey stick' deck plates

- Kenwood head unit with remote control and aux/USB input

- OEM Boot rack with cycle rack attachments

- Two fobs with flip keys (plus spare un-fobbed key for those little bootlid emergencies..)



As part of the (ultimately pointless) work into fixing the overheating issue, the car was last fitted with a new MLS head gasket/head skim, water pump, radiator, thermostat and temperature sensor. At the same time as the engine work was done a new clutch was put in. I also have a stack of miscellany in the garage that will go with the car if the new owner wants it including;



- original Minilite 15" wheels with Toyo T1R tyres

- original black cloth seats complete with rails

- custom Metal Monkey instrument dial set (LE500 style suitable for backlighting project, never fitted)

- new unused Mintex rear brake pads and disks

- 2 x coil packs

- coolant expansion tank with low-level alarm



There's a spare centre console, T-bar and cubbys, foglight switches, even a black hardtop shell 'project' with no fixings. Probably lots of stuff I've forgotten hidden away too.







Attached Images





File Type: jpg 8th Aug - 10b.jpg (135.5 KB)







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Meets

hiya guys i have a quick question why isn't there any meets on here at least there isn't any northeast ones we should try getting a few meets setup it would be nice to put faces to names and pick ppl's brains in person see there cars and get pointer when they see yours even if it wasn't in the northeast and it was a central location anyways just a suggestion





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Big en bearings

My TF has markings 41 6 A on all the big end bearing caps and marking B.BBB on the crank. Is blue the right bearing option?





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Good morning from Derbyshire

Hello my name is Jon and I have just become the extremely proud owner of a beautiful Mk1 MG ZS 180 in starlight silver. I am hoping to enjoy and find useful my joining of this group.



Many thanks to admin for my addition to this group, best regards Jon.





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K series 1.4 Vs 1.8

I've been given a complete K series 1.4 motor. It's got a blown HG - that's why! But I can fix that okay. Head looks good...



What I want to know is is this: The head is common between the st'd 1.4, 1.6 & 1.8 right? Is the crank the same to?



I would like to strip the block and make it into a 1.8! and I'm hoping it's just a case of replacing liners, pistons/rings - and maybe con rods too. Is that right?





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Collated Rolling Road Modification Results

MG TF 160 52plate 70,000~ miles



Rolling Road - Revivals http://ift.tt/QEwXBO



I have collated a few threads into just one so that its easier to read as a single journey. I planed on recording the benefit or detriment of each performance mod I make to try and find some fact behind some of the claims or advice that is out there for our TF's. Every time I made a change I had it on the Rolling Road.



My results are not only to prove to myself that a mod has worked or not, but also it may help someone save money in the future if a mod hasn't given what people would expect.



Now I had Athena RR'd when I first got her and it wasn't a great RR (She was producing 174bhp supposedly....), so I found somewhere else, however sadly this was after I had fitted the Daytona and 4-2-1 from Mike Satur and an ITG Maxogen, so I don't have an initial run to compare these items which is irritating! But I did have a run with them on so I have my baseline - 151bhp.

Athena was Z&F'd at the FRL (Stage II remap with no burble) and I fitted the Mike Satur Sports Cat. Below is the new results 160.4bhp







Below are the Old results vs the new you can see the new Z&F map has made a much smoother acceleration, and at 5000~rpm there is a 15bhp increase.







Next I removed the Sports Cat and fitted the standard cat, I ran the engine for 20mins so the cat was warm, then the RR gave the car a few runs to ensure that it was hot to make it a fair test vs the sports cat. Below are the results the standard cat with Z&F remap, it has only given a peak power increase of 3.5bhp vs the baseline run (please note however the map has improved drivability and at 5000~rpm there is still a huge improvement). CO reading were taken with both cats and the standard cat is healthy and has no issues. Below is the Sports cat vs the standard.







Below are all three runs the dashed being the baseline.







So in summary the SS sports cat and Z&F remap has given Athena a 9bhp peak power increase, however you can see that the map has improved it through out the rev range with an increase of 15bhp at 5000~rpm.



The surprise to me was that the sports cat vs the standard cat produced a 6bhp increase. I was always lead to believe that the VVC K series liked back pressure and that the a sports cat would decrease performance. On my TF I have proof that she likes the sports cat.



Some of you may have noticed that the limiter kicked in at 7100 rather than 7450 as per the Z&F remap. I messaged Mark (Z&F)




Quote:








is the vvc operating properly? If errors build up then lowering of the limiter can be a consequence.




Quote:








I had a Trophy report a less than expected gain too a while ago.

I also dynoed a race 190 VHPD car - that only saw 172bhp..

In both cases in turned out the bottom end bearings were worn causing engine friction - in fact the Trophy later threw a rod on a track day...my point is variable figures can have many causes...

There are no errors from the OBD and the RR had the OBD plugged in throughout too. However I will look into his advise as it could be an early warning of something not happy!



-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------





Next I bought some Mike Satur spec reground vvc cams - the set of 3 can be found here on Mikes page:

http://ift.tt/139pIaR



His spec:

Inlet cam 270° duration and 10.08mm of cam lift.

Exhaust Cam 260° duration and 10.16mm of cam lift



They were fitted by a garage I trust, belts were changed at the same time. Mike suggests that they should be timed up as normal.



The results:



Before 160.4bhp 131.1lbf.ft - after 160.0bhp 128.8 lbf.ft



After Graph:







The results in my opinion are not good... however this is also the point of doing the tests.



These are the results from the same TF and engine; other engines may differ.



Helpful email from Dave Andrews with suggestions:


Quote:








The exhaust cam I fit is 264 degrees rather than 260.



I am not a great believer in reprofiling the VVC cams, I am slightly puzzled at the quoted duration of the cam as the VVC normally varies from 220 degrees to 290 degrees by varying the speed of the cams rotation during the open and close periods.



The normal way of extracting extra power is head work, and uprated exhaust cam and retiming of the mechs using offset dowels.



I would check the timing by measuring the lift at TDC on both inlet and exhaust, when fully retracted the VVC should give around 5 thou lift at TDC and the exhaust cam around 50 thou.



However it is not uncommon for the latency in the system to result in retardation of both cams by 6-8 degrees, this will mean the lift at TDC is less on the inlet and more on the exhaust. The offset dowels advance the front mech and the exhaust cam (which in turn advances the rear mech via the rear belt).



Rover of St Albans have measured the TDC for me.



Front inlet - No Lift, starts to open 1 degree after TDC

Rear inlet - 0.04mm

Exhaust - 1.85mm



Dave Andrews reply:


Quote:








They would appear to be around 5 degrees out, so two 6 degree dowels should do the trick.











3bhp increase once timed correctly; Please ignore the dotted lines that's the graph with a standard Cat.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

ITG Maxogen vs 160 Airbox



ITG Maxogen











As you can see with the Standard 160 air box back on, the car produced an extra 4bhp 1lbf.ft. So the Maxogen has stayed off…



Orignal threads with other members thoughts and comments - worth reading!



Z&F + sports cat original thread



MS Cams original thread



ITG vs 160 air box original thread



I have since had a modified Z&F map with the rev limit increased to 7600rpm and also fitted a WON NOS kit…. sadly my number 4 piston has an issue following the NOS and I have yet to discover whats happened. Another engine will be going in and as such I'll have to RR it to compare baselines etc











My own summary and thoughts - The Z&F remap is the best £ to bhp improvement I made and tested. Leave your 160 air box on, improve your exhaust system. So nothing new there… :broon:





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samedi 28 mars 2015

Replacing front passenger side foglight

Sorry about the new thread but I couldn't find anything elsewhere about this specific issue.



The smashed foglight I had on the passenger side was easily replaced but I now have a smashed lens on the driver's side. I sourced a used replacement and confidently went to replace it.

I have removed the little triangular undertray 'extension' (5 self tappers) but unlike the passenger side, there seems to be no room to use even a stubby screwdriver on at least 2 of the screws behind the light unit (4 total), because the radiator is just too close to the back of the light.



Looking closely at the replacement I realised that the bulb-holder/reflector part can be separated from the lens bit (with the 4 screws) possibly improving access to the 2 most difficult screws (still got the 'rad too close' issue), but otherwise it looks like I need the bumper off.



Anyone done this without removing the bumper?



Thanks!





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ZR VVC- MEMS Mapping

Haven't been on here for quite some time as started hanging out more on the facebook groups but fancy having a place to write up the development of this project.



Before this I had a Mk1 160, loved the car despite it's flaws. It was a beautiful trophy blue and the pre project drive build quality was very nice. I had learnt much with this car such as headgasket, timing belts, suspension etc. The car had been taken on track sessions quite few times however sadly since it was run on a student budget it could never quite match for my friends









Unfortunately all good things come to an end and with "Bluey" it was a mixture of a cracked windscreen, a hole in the roof around the aerial base and a hole by the side skirt where it feel off the jack and only a badly placed axle stand. So took the chance to move onto a Mk2 as I had been wanting one for sometime.



Hunting around gumtree,ebay and sales groups I came across a 04 plate 160 for £500. Unfortunately it had a scratch on the side and had been sat for 18 months on a driveway. A challenge! The first being getting it off the drive with a dead battery and alternator. Luckily had a friend who had just gotten a trailer









Skip forward to a MOT, oil chance and new tyres (old ones were bald) and the little rover got it's first taste of track abuse with my friends ZS with VVC conversion







http://ift.tt/1BGFDbB



Now the history is out the way here's the ultimate goal. to reach 170hp , considering most VVCs only pull 150 about as stock this is going to be a interesting task. combined with the rebuilt coilovers Ive got to put on that should make it a nice track wagon.



How will this be done I hear you ask? Well I've got a spare vvc exhaust cam i've sent off to get reground to Piper spec. Also have dowels to advance the timing to get the most out of it.



But the interesting part is that during my free time at university and lunch breaks at work I've been learning how to remap these cars. It's taken over a year and alot of nights awake thinking about this and that. But I got a prototype tested out the other week before the track session.



http://ift.tt/1D3bZ4y



Rolling road place was not brilliant as he couldn't do print outs and just had to write down the numbers are various rpm locations. Also forgot to mention the exhaust was blowing pre cat before hand and the remap file was tested first. So think the results were a bit flawed as the ecu would have been messing with the fuel trim because of the blow. Anyway first results being a 3-4hp increase across the rev range, bit disappointed but will be looking for another place to get rolled.





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t4 dealer options

hi phil t4

in a recent post you said the following in connection with zcs codes ( Not strictly correct, early versions of the diagnostic discs allowed you to do it and also add cruise and quite a few other options.



And yes they can also be added to the last diagnostic disc DST0006V too so they then become dealer options once again. )

how is this possible





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tell me about MG ZR air con

air con in our mk2 wasnt working in 2012 when we got the car, it looked like it had a replacement engine at some point and if that was the case, pipes will have been disconnected and gas lost.



so I took it to a regas specialist who vac tested it and regassed it for £30, all was well for about a month, then it stopped working - most likely due to a gas leak.



not long ago I had to undo one of the pipes for access to the alternator, there was no gas present





the mrs who mainly drives the car was asking if we could look at getting the air con working again, so basically I want to know what to look for to try and find a leak, before I take it back to be regassed.



ta





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Alarm lost its mind?

Hi,



New here, tried to post re this already but it disappeared! 2004 diesel MG ZR, has had numerous alarm issues since new and 2 BCU's fitted. Last one due to driver's window and rear fogs not working. Vehicle has been left a couple of months and the battery totally discharged. Connected a new battery with jump leads so I could open the boot to get my tools - alarm just went off, no response to key fob! Fitted new battery, no response to key fob, alarm sounding, so used EKA and managed to silence alarm and start engine and with engine running key fob opened boot. Stopped engine, no response to key fob, alarm sounding, stops after about 30 seconds for about 10 seconds and then it's going again - a repetitive cycle! Pulled alarm fuse and left it in disgust! Tried again following day, no response to key fob, EKA seems not to work! Any ideas anyone? Last BCU cost almost £2000 at main dealer, total rip off, car is not worth that expenditure again. Help!



Paul. (Kent)



See original post has now appeared! Left this as a duplicate if anyone has any ideas please!





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Heater knobs goosed!

My heater knobs have seen better days, just purchased these. Easy fit? or just pull the knobs out and stick these alloy ones in? http://ift.tt/19bZGXD





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2.0l T-series

Hi All,



First post here, sorry its a problem post.



I've got a kit car - Robin Hood super spec with a 2.0l T-series (stroked K-series?) 16v Rover with a Ford MT75 gearbox. I completed it in 2007, drove it until 2011 and its been sat in my parents garage ever since.



Bought a new battery, and tried starting it today, fuel went everywhere. The inline filter was cracked so fitted a new one.



Fuel pump whirrs away when I ignition-on & fuel fills the filter (and stays in the lines). Now, when I crank I get one or two cylinders firing once, followed by empty cranking.



I put new spark plugs in (since they were only £10 for 4 NGK ones), and confirmed that I have spark by pulling each HT lead individually and grounding the spark plug on the top of the head and watching to see the spark while I was cranking. I think I have fuel going into the cylinders as the clean & dry new spark plugs come out wet with fuel.



Thought I was probably flooding the engine, so left the car for several hours to let the fuel evaporate through the spark plug void. Still the same thing happens.



Starter motor sounds OK, it always had quite a slow cranking speed, but used to catch immediately.



Car has covered 2800 miles, and the engine is probably long due a service, but wanted to get the oil up to temp before draining it, then off to get an MOT.



Any ideas?



Cheers,

Phil





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CBT Rover 25 Parts

After a Rover 25 front bumper and bonnet in paint code CBT.





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Passenger side wing ZR - PBT

As title states...

I'm after a passenger side wing for a ZR in paint code PBT.

Cheers





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Rear screen repair

Hi Guys can anyone suggest someone who replaces the rear screen plastic near Chelmsford Essex please





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Mungo's Farewell - A Very Sad Tale

Hey all, good to see the forum thriving. It's been a while since we left the scene and we're still cruising, albeit in an MX5 nowadays...



Regrettably we will soon be getting rid of Mungo, our '03 TF 115 in Trophy Blue (still the best colour). He developed an overheating problem last year after putting him into an MG 'specialist' to repair a fairly straight-forward leak around the coolant pump. Soon after the work, the car overheated during a run to Oban, and was never the same after that. He would overheat unpredictably, culminating in a spectacular steam blow-out near Junction 22 on the M8 after picking up the - supposedly fixed - car yet again from the 'specialist'.



After a lot of work, the garage owner eventually 'gave up', leaving us frustrated and genuinely heartbroken with a car that was in a worse condition than when we had first taken it in. Two different garages couldn't fix the problem that had been introduced, so after a lot of time and expense we have had to shelve sentimentality as I have completely lost faith in the wee car.



Quite a sad end after the 40k-odd trouble-free miles we enjoyed across UK and Europe, many of those miles with friends from the .org forum and others. Here he is in his glory days as a Rimmer Bros desktop wallpaper (click to enlarge).







Anyhoo... this thread has apparently already been deleted once for reading like an advert... remember the days when you could post a "what's it worth?" :D. When he *is* listed for sale I will come back and pay my dues as a Trader, or whatever they call it now.



Sorry to reappear only to post glum news, but I guess you guys know the value of the above better than most so I thought I'd give you all a heads-up.



Peace!





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K Series Throttle too sensitive

Firstly apologies for placing this question here as it is about a Freelander but it is relevant as the engine is the same and my MGF has a similarly sensitive throttle. Also the Landrover section is very dead.

Not sure it this should be called a fault or a feature but the missus finds the throttle in our 2004 K series Freelander overly sensitive when tiddling about in first gear. It makes the car awkward to drive smoothly in car parks or queues of traffic and she is complaining about it having kangaroo petrol. I noticed if you just touch the pedal while out of gear the engine jumps up to around 2000rpm and it is difficult to make the revs to climb smoothly from tickover to say 1000rpm or 1500rpm. Oddly it is less of an issue while the car is cold.

Is this a K series thing? My MGF has a similarly sensitive throttle but probably having a higher geared first gear it seems to be less of an issue. Either that or I rarely drive it that way.

Is this common to all K series or is it a fault? If not is there a way to reduce the sensitivity at initial touch of the pedal?



Sorry for such a stupid question but it is annoying the missus enough the car might have to go. She isn't a great driver and wouldn't be able to change her driving style to compensate. It has taken me weeks to even understand what the problem really is as she just keeps going on about kangaroo petrol. I thought it was a clutch problem at first as there is a very slight shudder in the clutch.





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Auxillary wiring, through the bulkhead.

We have recently bought a caravan, being now too creaky to sleep in a tent. I have fitted a towbar, with the electrics to work the lights on the back of the caravan (12n), no problems. I am now trying to install the auxillary wiring (12s), which charges the caravan's own battery from the car's engine. I have all the necessary bits, but I am having difficulty finding a good route for the 12v supply. Should I run it through the main wiring grommet for the fuse box under the dash board (I'd have to take out the expansion tank to see what I'm doing, that's the easy bit, but it is very hard to see what I'm doing inside the car, as it is so high up under the dash), or is there a better route?

(2001 45 IXL TD)

Thanks





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odd leak

any one help me will a leak l have, l have a 2002 rover 25 engine is a 1.4, l have a small leak with the water coming out the bottom of the bell housing its not a lot about half a pint in a week, no water seems to be running in to the top of the housing any were, l was thinking there may be a core plug at the back of the engine behind the housing but l dont know this started about a week ago, head gasket was done 18 months ago but dosnt look like it leaking any were, only other fault i have and l have had this since i got the car some mornings it runs like it as a miss till it warms up, any ideas any one.





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Owners clubs

Now the wife's mgf is gonna be on the road once Russell has worked his magic she wants to join either the mgoc or the mgcc..



Any ideas which is the best and what benefits do they offer and are they really worth it??



Cheap insurance offered are not really a deal sealer as she's got it on a very good classic policy for £230



I think she's more interested in events and the social side of things.



All thoughts and info will be gratefully received.





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mgf clutch release problem

the car is difficult to impossible to engauge gear with the engine running and clutch pedal down

I can put the car in gear then with the clutch pedal down then start the engine and set off normally (with the clutch working fine) in first, although its difficult to change up and down

I had put this down to the common problem of the clutch release lever been seized

I removed the pin from the end of the clutch slave arm and was surprised to find the release arm very "floppy" no resistance to movement at all

I have replaced the seals in the slave cylinder and bled the system but things are exactly the same

when the clutch pedal is depressed the clutch slave arm is moving , it actually rocks the engine on its mounts so I am pretty sure there is no problem there

with someone sat with the clutch pedal depressed I have tried to move the release arm further with no luck

its like the clutch is almost released but not quite

any ideas ?

thanks

alan





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New hard top

Hi guys i have just bought a hard top from the breakers yard (£100) it was a complete steal, i asked why he sold it so cheap and he said he will get more costum being cheaper than the rest which is fair enough, anyhows my car is tahitti blue and the hard top is silver but i am not sure the code, it came from a 53 plate and has a few slight scratches on the top which i want to repair.



anyone guide or help will be very grateful







thanks all





pics coming soon as my email acting up





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Why?

Why, when you pull your keys out of your pocket, is the ruddy fob always upside down? Surely you have a 50/50 chance but it seems that every time, the rotten thing's upside down and I'm jabbing my thumb on the back of the fob.



Feel free to add your own 'why' questions.





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Seat belt light

My seat belt light has decided it doesn't want to go off when I click in the belt... sometimes. I know this light also warns of other things but in this case, it's definitely the seat belt clicking into it's catch and not flicking off the switch that's the problem - I know this because you can feed the belt into the catch, watch the light go off, then have it come on again as it finally clicks home. Sometimes, just wriggling the seat belt tongue will turn off the light. Swearing at it doesn't work. This also convinces me it's not the connector under the seat that's the problem.



I'm tempted to squirt some RP7 in there but suspect it's more likely to be a raised switch that's worn down over the years.



Has anyone pulled the seat belt catch apart?





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Car just died, turns over but wouldn't fire

This has happened a few times now, I drive a 75 2.5 petrol, The car just dies and will turn over really fast but won't fire.

Go back to my car the next day to move it and it starts first time.



As you can imagine its a pain but because it starts ok i leave it hoping it will be alright and it is for a few months then out of the blue it does it again.



I'm thinking maybe the fuel pump but why would it be so intermittent?

any advice would be great!!





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How strong are the 160 pistons?

Does anyone have any links or official data on how strong the 160 pistons are please? I know they are stronger than the 143's but how strong? what power limit?



Thank you





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What have you done to your 75/ZT today

This was quite a popular thread on the 400/45/zs forum but I notice it is not here, so-



What have you done to your 75/ZT today



Me, I have changed the water pump and thermostat so now have some heating in the car





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Why it makes perfect sense to drive with your top down...






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TCR International Series - Round 1, Sepang, Malaysia

Series website: http://ift.tt/1OIksib



One for us Touring car fans, this series will be on the F1 support package mostly.



Coverage on Motors TV and streamed live on Youtube (not sure if it will be geoblocked?).



Youtube: http://ift.tt/1OIksig



Saturday 28th March.



Race 1 - 07:30-08:10.



Sunday 29th March (BST)



Race 2 - 04:35-06:10. (Might be an hour ahead?)





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vendredi 27 mars 2015

Malaysian GP (general spoilers, live on BBC TV)

Due to work and internet issues I am late in starting this race thread.



Don't forget the clocks go forward this weekend.



No point in listing the earlier coverage.





BBC TV coverage.



BBC2/BBC2 HD.



Saturday 28th March.



05:55-07:05 - Live FP3.



BBC1/BBC1 HD.



08:30-10:30 - Live Qualifying.

14:00-16:30 - Qualifying Replay.



Sunday 29th March (BST).



07:00-10:30 - Live Malaysian GP.

14:00-16:00 - Malaysian GP Replay.



BBC Red button.



10:30-11:30 - F1 Forum.



Sky F1 coverage.



Saturday 28th March.



05:45-07:15 - Live FP3.

08:00-10:45 - Live Qualifying.



Sunday 29th March (BST).



06:30-07:00 - Live Malaysian GP Track Parade.

07:00-07:30 - Pit Lane Live

07:30-10:30 - Live Malaysian GP.

10:30-11:15 - Paddock Live.



Also live on RTL, Radio 5 Live Sports Extra for practises, Radio 5 Live qualifying and for the race.





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How a V6 should sound.

If you are wearing headphones, turn the volume down.








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Ever seen one of these ?

It was fitted to our 4 door ZS, But needed the unit it protected to fit to our Hatchback.








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In Tank pump

A chap down the road from me is breaking a 2005 facelift petrol 75....will his ITP work in my ZT cdti diesel ?





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Tf Headlights

Hi can anyone help which way do the headlight changeover levers need to be in for European driving ie both to the left or right Many thanks Steve





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Heating problem...no fan etc'

Hello.I have no heating in my ZT cdti which is bit of a bind!

Just ran the self diagnostics on the ATC and had nearly all the possible fault codes; 11,13,14,21,22,31,32,33 ...checked them against the fault descriptions, but it seems a lot of faults to be each and every individual fault? Also I don't think the heater fan is working (I swapped the relay under the bonnet with the heated rear window one but no change.)

Anyone had the same problems?





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How do

Hello all. Recent new owner of a MG ZT cdti. Love the car....in fact, probably the first car I've actually had any interest in (cars for necessity.....motorcycles for fun:) )

However, I bought this car knowing it had problems.....which I am now intent on fixing. :)





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T16 or K series Turbo ???

hi guys before i go any further i know ur probe all sick of answering the same questions over and over i have done some research but each post says something different so my question is I'm buying a zr 160 soon and i want to know which method is better and easier also what is invloved in each method is it just a case od a donor car and swap its over or will i need extras with the t16 will i need a wiring loom from the donor



again sorry for another t16 conversion post but I'm just trying to get all the facts before i make my decision





thanks in advance for ur input and help it is much appreciated





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The MG3 Facelift

What do people think?



Wouldnt mind a ride?



Cars not too bad either.



http://ift.tt/1xH1BPo





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Retapping bolts ?

So my spark plugs threads have gone i have retapped the spark plug hole and im about to screwthe hex coil thing in. The problem is the tool will not go all the way down the hole so im thinking of screwing the new thread coil thing onto the spark plug then screw the spark plug in ? would this work or do i need to screw the hex coil in by it self then the plug into it ?





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Low coolant alarm

Saw a post the other day (which of course I can't find now) that suggested that the low coolant alarm available from the MGF Centre was the same as the B&G one.



Can anyone confirm or deny this as the MGF centre one is a lot cheaper





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Mk1 mg zr rear bumper heatshield/exhaust trim

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it will come with 6x brand new nuts and bolts





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P6 gas-turbine project

Hello, I joined the forum to divest myself of the ingredients to create a Rover P6 Gas-Turbine powered project. It is in the Cars for Sale area. I have a suitable turbine, gearbox and vehicle but my health has declined beyond my opportunity to pursue the project further. I'm not greedy, preferring to see the right home found than be a rich man, but this is not a cheap toy to fiddle with either. I hope one of you either wants this challenge or knows someone else who does.





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MG GS Promo / Config

Interesting video here on the MG-Motor china's website.



http://ift.tt/1NinSGG



Shows the GS jumping Tower Bridge.....





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Rover P6 Gas-Turbine Project For Sale

Hello Rover people ! I did my apprenticeship on Rover P6's and have owned and driven many more over the years. Last functioning one was an MG version of the last 75, with the American V8 and rwd. Great fun but monumentally thirsty when you booted it. Currently got a series One P6 auto in restorable condition, leather seats good etc. A Porsche 928 auto box and a Rover Gas turbine engine c/w 'free turbine' fitted. Essentially, the jet blast blows against the unconnected 'free' turbine, which gives you maximum torque at minimum rpm... like a steam engine. Quite the opposite of a directly driven output, which,like a highly tuned two-stroke, gives you a tiny, narrow power band with bugger all and melting internals either side of it. Only much use if linked to an electrical generator and thence to the transmission by electric motor. Been successfully done by at least one enterprising individual who bought my old DeHavilland Ghost engine off me, but a few moons since. My intention was to restore the P6 with the auto transaxle in the rear and the turbine up front...... something of a tribute to the prototype in Gaydon museum, albeit with rear wheel drive. One of the surviving original designers saw my bench mounted engine and declared it to be able to push out around 180 bhp but needed a throttling mechanism fitting to control exhaust gas temp and over speeding. A heat transfer rotary disc would make it more efficient, based on ceramic catalytic converter innards, but wasn't essential. Unfortunately, because I am of a certain age, my health has caught up with me and rendered all plans of mice and men so much pie in the sky, as far as my own involvement can be concerned. Interested parties, line up if the challenge rows your boat. My engine is rather rarer and more powerful than the normal Rover turbines doing the rounds, therefore is a bit more valuable and useable too. It's up and running on the button, comes with the car and gearbox if wanted. TEXT me on: 07908 865 962 initially..... I neither answer phone calls from anyone not in my phone book, nor listen to voicemails because I am an old git.





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